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heat? 1959 Lark

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  • heat? 1959 Lark

    I can not figure out how to work the heat in my Lark. The Heat nob has an arrow pointing towards the right. Like I should try and twist the nob, however I can not twist the nob or figure out how it works. Can someone give me some instruction?

    Troy

  • #2
    Troy, I sent you an email since the problems may be multiple. That switch was not the best of designs with the stiff gears and cable working it's way to the heater core valve, let alone the vent knob working with it for fresh air to get you heat, but I hope I helped a little. You'll be asking how to stop the heat this summer soon, which is another issue! Good luck..


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    • #3
      Troy,
      you picked a good time to ask this question,because I just overhaul my heater this week,
      first drain some coolant from the system to allow the removal of the hoses to the heater valve and core . disconnect the hoses,remove the valve,remove the fiberglass shroud, remove the heater core . use force air to remove dried bugs and dirt from the core then stick it in a bucket of water to loosen caked on bugs and dirt. The valve is next, in a vise loosen the gland nut and put wd-40 on the shaft top and bottom, very gently move the shaft up and down until it moves freely without bending the linkage,this takes awhile but it will loosen up and move freely(a nos valve is going for about 95.00 bucks now)then snug the nut down just enough to contact the packing to stop leaks. My core had a leak which I fixed. than it leaked again so I had it recored for 112.50.My cable from the dash control freed up with wd-40 an alittle work to where it moved freely. A finger of wheel bearing grease wiped on the gear mechanism got it to move freely without removing it from the dash.The fresh air control only needed a squirt of wd 40 to lube it.Connect the air vent cable to the arm on the vent shutter parrel to the ground with the knob on the cable all the way in.install the core,the shroud and hoses,short of the recore the whole thing took about two hours and works as good as new.
      JOe

      1959 HARDTOP R2 clone
      1960 conv
      SDC member since 1972
      1959 HARDTOP R2 4speed
      1960 conv R2 auto
      SDC member since 1972
      http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff21/59r2/DSC01514-3.jpg

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      • #4
        A common problem these have is the valve under the hood, right by the heater core. That thing frequently freezes up and won't allow hot water to go through. Some have replaced then with valves from mid 70s Dodge trucks.

        First place to start is there. If it doesn't move, disconnect the cable and see if the knob moves then. If it does, try the valve by hand. If it doesn't, you'll know the cable is stuck as well.



        Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
        Parish, central NY 13131

        "Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

        "With your Lark you're on your own, free as a bird, alive as a Lark. You've suddenly discovered that happiness is a thing called Larking!"



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        • #5
          Sound like familiar tips, Troy? They are all stiff when you get them and need some love, so I hope you have some luck. The fiberglass cover cleans up nicely with dish soap and warm water after you find what critters have discovered that spot behind the core described by 59r2. Most cores seem to be bad and leak. I have at least four of them and valves in various conditions, but my local shop said they couldn't repair the core like 59r2's. Maybe they were just lazy and wanted a 1K job instead..
          A re-core for $112 must look like a brand new one and last a long time, so the labor and bucks are worth it to me. Sounds good. That valve is the trick like I explained in my email. If you find one NOS, it will definitely set you back big bucks as mentioned above. WD40 may loosen things up, but seems to dissipate too quickly for me. I actually greased the switch gear and sent an oilier spray down the cable housings and it's a big difference and lasts longer.
          Good luck with your rubber trim replacement, too.
          Not long now until you will be getting the thumbs up on the road and questions of "what year is that thing?" at the red lights.

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