No announcement yet.

inline 6

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • inline 6

    Does anyone have a good way to get some torque out of the inline 6cyl? I've seen many inline 6cyl performance mods for Ford and Chevy..., but none for Studebakers. I have a Lark that I'd like to squeeze torque out of while I'm rebuilding the engine. I also kicked around the idea of popping a v8 into it, but I thought just modifying the 6cyl could tied me over.


  • #2
    Look at this:


    • #3
      Elsewhere on this website, click on to links, then go to Studebaker vendors, then Cathcarts Studebaker. He has all kinds of hop-up equipment for Champion engines.
      Good luck.

      '59 Lark VI Regal Hardtop
      '59 Lark VI Regal Hardtop
      Recording Secretary, Long Island Studebaker Club


      • #4
        Welcome to the Forum!

        Are you working with the flat head six or the overhead valve?

        Brad Johnson
        Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
        '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight
        "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

        Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
        Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
        '33 Rockne 10,
        '51 Commander Starlight,
        '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
        '56 Sky Hawk


        • #5
          I'm working with a 62 Lark...the overhead valve if I'm not mistaken.



          • #6
            Hey Brian,

            I am a certified inline six nut. The wierder the better I say. I've built up Ford inline sixes up to the 400HP mark with a ton of work... but with the Studebaker inline, you MAY be able to find some really old school performance parts for it, but i'd say your best bet is to pick out a Ford or Chevy inline six build you like and try your best to duplicate it. It will take a lot of homework and research, but you'll need to find ways to adapt performance parts from other manufacturers to your Studey. The Ford 300 I built had GM valves in it with Chrysler roller lifters, and custom Crane roller rockers that I believe were repackaged big block Ford pieces.

            I'd start out simple with your build. If you're planning on pulling out the engine and going all the way through it, i'd suggest porting, polishing, and port matching your intake / exhaust manifold / head, to the intake / exhaust gasket. I'm not 100% familiar with the Stude inliner but if it's got siamese exhaust ports in the center, you could get an exhaust port splitter for a Ford 200 Mustang engine from Clifford. If you have the dough, you could always get a header flange the same thickness as your intake manifold flange (so everything bolts flush), trace out your existing exhaust manifold design and cut it out with a plasma cutter. You can then grind it all smooth, port match it, and have a good exhaust shop build you a set of custom headers. I'd pick out a 268 or 272 advertised duration cam that you like for another application, and have your old cam sent in to be reground. I think you'll have enough meat on the cam to grind it to that. I wouldn't go any higher than that though. Go to Isky, or Clifford for cam suggestions.

            For the basic rebuild, please please please spring the extra cash and have the entire rotating assembly balanced. A stock 300 Ford falls on it's face at 3600-4000 RPM. I used to shift my built 300 at 7000. It held together because of the balance job I had done on it. Heck even if you have to sacrifice a cam, or the headers to afford it, the balance is something you'll only have to do once! It was by far worth every penny. If your inliner only has 4 main bearings like most of the old fashioned inliners... this is more of a necessity if you plan on driving it aggressively. The 300 I built had 7 mains and I still did it.

            Another thing to think of... replace the connecting rod studs with ARP studs, same goes for head studs and main bearing studs. I knew a guy that spent a lot of money on building an old 134 Go-Devil Willys flathead 4 banger, just to have it chunk a rod because of an old, fatigued connecting rod stud. ARP is good stuff... and even better insurance.

            In way of carburetion, you could probably rig a 200 Mustang 1 barrel to 2 barrel adapter to the Stude, or even better... get a 1 barrel off a pre-emissions Ford 300. I want to say they're about 300ish CFM. If i'm not mistaken it's the largest Carter YF 1 barrel ever built for a mass produced engine. If you could fit your stock oil bath or air filter over it, it would be cool for the sleeper affect.

            Good luck with your inline six build, and let me know if you have any questions! [^]

            Chris Salisbury
            Hutto/Austin, TX

            1958 Commander Starlight Hardtop


            • #7
              My first car was a 60 Lark that somebody had put an OHV 6 into. I bought an adapter and put a two barrel from a 55 Ford on it. I think today I would use a two stage Holley/Weber from a V6.