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  • Valve Adjustment

    I found an old Chiltons Auto Repair Manual with an adjustment for valves on the V-8 Studebaker engine that puts #1 cylinder at top dead center compression stroke , then adjusting #1 cyl both; #3 Exhaust; #5 inlet; #7 inlet; #2 both; #4 exhaust; #6 none; #8 both...Then turn crank one full turn and adj #1 none; #3 both*; #5 both*; #7 exhaust; #2 exhaust*; #4 inlet; #6 both; #8 inlet*. I have never seen this sequence before. Is it so? Is it for all years? The book is from 1940 to 1953 cars. * = duplication.

  • #2

    Thats exactly how I adjust my valves. I do them when "cold" without the oil spraying all over creation. I've never had any trouble with lash or any other valve related trouble with my car for the last 30 years. The only change I make is I adjust them one to two thousandths tighter than specs.
    sals54

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    • #3
      I had never read this adjusting sequence before, all I have done is set #1 And then move the crank around to each cylinder, adjusting one cylinder at a time and moving to the next. My shop manual does not mention this sequence for adjusting valves, that's amazing to me. Can anyone verify the sequence I wrote is CORRECT?[?]

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      • #4
        The method you note will work for ANY V-8 engine with the firing order 18436572!
        I like the single cylinder at a time myself..but have used the above.

        Also do'em cold. MUCH easier...JUST as accurate...I've verified this a coupla different times.

        Mike

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        • #5
          Here's the list I use.
          At TDC with #1 on the compression stroke adjust Intakes: 1-2-5-7 and Exhausts: 1-3-4-8

          With pointer at 0 and #6 on compression stroke adjust Intakes: 3-4-6-8 and Exhausts: 2-5-6-7

          Its common for small block Ch*vys as well. If you go to any Ch*vy site you will find the same info.
          sals54

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          • #6
            That method will work for any V-8 with 18436572 firing order UNLESS you have an insanely lumpy cam. Then it might be best to punt and simply start with #1 TDC compression then rotate the crank 90 degrees and follow firing order.

            Personally I find it easier to do the latter anyway rather than try to remember which ones to adjust when. I just take the spark plugs out so I can turn the engine over with the fan (will not work on R-series or A/C equipped cars obviously)

            nate

            --
            55 Commander Starlight
            http://members.cox.net/njnagel
            --
            55 Commander Starlight
            http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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            • #7
              Thanks for the answers, I seem to like Sals method . I have used N8N's method in the past.I'm sure all work fine. I would not use my posting sequence untill someone says it is correct.

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              • #8
                Curt, my old Stude mechanic, Harry Webber, had a set of valve covers with the tops cut out. He'd warm up the engine, remove the regular valve covers, install the "topless" valve covers, start the engine again, and adjust. It saved a lot of oil running all over everything. I never asked him if the topless valve covers were his own invention or if they came from Studebaker.

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                • #9
                  Curt -

                  Don't understand your statment - "I would not use my posting sequence untill someone says it is correct".
                  Of course it works. Each piston is at TDC on the firing stroke...both valves fully closed. Why do you think it might not be right?
                  That or the, intake opening - set exhaust / exhaust closing - set intake, method..!
                  Either one of these works well with ANY lift/duration cam.

                  Ivory -
                  That method works well for hyd. cams. "Not" so good for mechanical cams!

                  Mike

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                  • #10
                    Mike, this Chiltons book has an incorrect valve adjustment for the flat head six used in Kaiser/Frazer cars. That's why I made the statement about the sequence I posted and was asking about.

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                    • #11
                      Mike I quess I missed your statement that my posted sequence would work.Thanks for the help.

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                      • #12
                        quote:Originally posted by ivorydan

                        Curt, my old Stude mechanic, Harry Webber, had a set of valve covers with the tops cut out. He'd warm up the engine, remove the regular valve covers, install the "topless" valve covers, start the engine again, and adjust. It saved a lot of oil running all over everything. I never asked him if the topless valve covers were his own invention or if they came from Studebaker.
                        I have a couple of those cut-away valve covers too. One, unfortunately, was made from a chromed cover[V]. I have used them, but oil still spatters and you beat up your hands trying to keep up with the moving parts. Last time I used the cold, simple system like Sals54 decribed. Never again with the hot.


                        [img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/R-4.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64L.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64P.jpg[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/53K.jpg[/img=right]Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia
                        '53 Commander Starliner (since 1966)
                        '64 Daytona Wagonaire (original owner)
                        '64 Daytona Convertible (2006)
                        Museum R-4 engine
                        1962 Gravely Model L (Studebaker-Packard serial plate)
                        1972 Gravely Model 430 (Studebaker name plate, Studebaker Onan engine)
                        Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia.
                        '64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Avanti R-1, Museum R-4 engine, '72 Gravely Model 430 with Onan engine

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                        • #13
                          quote:Originally posted by Mike Van Veghten

                          That or the, intake opening - set exhaust / exhaust closing - set intake, method..!
                          Either one of these works well with ANY lift/duration cam.
                          Mike
                          That's how I do it.
                          No matter how wild the cam, or what kind of engine, you still get an accurate adjustment.

                          Jerry Forrester
                          Douglasville, Georgia
                          Be sure to check out my eBay store
                          http://stores.ebay.com/CHROME-CHROME-CHROME_ and my EZ33 store http://tinyurl.com/2g2j88
                          for your shiny Stude stuff


                          More pix of Leo the '55 Pres HT here...http://tinyurl.com/2gj6cu
                          Jerry Forrester
                          Forrester's Chrome
                          Douglasville, Georgia

                          See all of Buttercup's pictures at https://imgur.com/a/tBjGzTk

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