Steering Shaft Replacement

[StudeMichael]

I am about to put a new steering shaft in a 1957 Packard Clipper. The threads on the old shaft where the nut holds the steering wheel on were completely destroyed prior to my purchasing the car. It has a saginaw power steering system. I am wondering if I should pull the whole column or try to install the new shaft with the column in place. Thank you for any advice.

1957 Packard Clipper
1958 Golden Hawk
1963 Daytona Convertible
1963 R2 Daytona
1963 R2 GT Hawk
1963 R1 Wagonaire
1963 R4 Avanti
1964 Champ
1966 Cruiser

[gordr]

Michael, if this is the Saginaw "offset" box, there will be a coupling in a small housing between the steering box proper and the column. You can separate the column from the box at this point, and then remove the column, which you have to do, because the shaft is removed from the bottom of the column.

Please don't discard the old shaft. It might be of use to someone who wishes to install a custom steering wheel on a car with this style box.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[N8N]

easiest way to do it is to pull the jacket out completely (from inside the car) and then remove the shaft. like the other posters said, at least you don't have to remove the steering *box* like you would on any other Studebaker! You'll need to remove the battery box before you start, then disconnect the shift linkage from underneath hood, then disconnect the wiring going up the column under the dash. Then loosen the four screws holding the rubber boot to the firewall, go back under the hood, loosen the clamp, and withdraw the jacket from off the shaft. I'm assuming that the steering wheel is already off per your post. Then remove the four nuts that hold the shaft on, remove that, and transfer all the spacers/insulators and horn wire over to the new shaft. Assembly, as they say, is the reverse of removal. You'll need to remove the little brush from the jacket for the horn contact so it doesn't hang up when you reinstall the jacket. You may also need to fine tune the position of the jacket when you have it all together to get the self-canceling of your turn signals working correctly, so check that before you button everything up and reinstall the battery tray.

This is a two person job, however, as someone will need to hold the shaft steady (a steering wheel makes a handy tool for this) while you remove the prevailing-torque nuts that hold it on. Unless you want to try to use a pipe wrench on it but I would definitely only do this on the shaft you're going to discard, not the one you're installing.

If I may make a recommendation, I would definitely check the integrity of the horn wire while you have this all apart (refer to your shop manual for details) if it is OK but the insulation is questionable I would put one or two layers of heat shrink over the whole length of it to prevent future issues. You ought to be able to find heat shrink in long lengths (3-4 feet) at a good hardware store or electronics supply. Once you swap the shaft you will see why everyone cusses those horn wires; it's a little part that causes an annoying problem when it fails (and will cause you to fail your safety inspection) but takes a lot of labor hours to R&R.

good luck,

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[StudeMichael]

Thank you Gordon and Nate. I will report back the progress!

1957 Packard Clipper
1958 Golden Hawk
1963 Daytona Convertible
1963 R2 Daytona
1963 R2 GT Hawk
1963 R1 Wagonaire
1963 R4 Avanti
1964 Champ
1966 Cruiser