Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

1 Barrel Carb. Problem

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 1 Barrel Carb. Problem

    This has been going on for a long time. When you let the car set for a week it starts right up you touch the gas pedal it smuthers and dies the 3rd time it is ok. If it is started every day no problems. I have checked for vacuum leaks, changed the fuel pump and added a electric pump back at the tank with switch I flip the switch on untill the pump slows down turn the switch off the pump and then start the car. Could this be the vacuum advance?
    It is a six cylinder

    7G-Q1 49 2R12 10G-F5 56B-D4 56B-F2
    As soon as you find a product you like they will stop making it.

  • #2
    Do you set the choke by depressing the gas pedal BEFORE you ever crank it?

    Miscreant Studebaker nut in California's central valley.

    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe
    1957 President two door

    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

    Comment


    • #3

      Yes I pull it out and when it starts I push it about half way in.
      quote:Originally posted by Mr.Biggs

      Do you set the choke by depressing the gas pedal BEFORE you ever crank it?

      Miscreant Studebaker nut in California's central valley.

      1957 Transtar 1/2ton
      1960 Larkvertible V8
      1958 Provincial wagon
      1953 Commander coupe
      1957 President two door


      7G-Q1 49 2R12 10G-F5 56B-D4 56B-F2
      As soon as you find a product you like they will stop making it.

      Comment


      • #4
        You need to put a 600 Edelbrock on it...oops wrong thread .

        Actually, what you're describing is almost normal IMHO. On cars with auto chokes the choke is only open about 1/2 inch while the car is warming up so halfway in might be a little too far after it first starts. Experiment with it. But, the fact that it starts right up tells me it's not losing fuel from the bowl and the accel pump is working the way it should.

        Take a look at how far open the choke is when you push the cable in halfway and maybe put a mark on the cable to indicate when the choke is open about 1/2" and see if it improves.

        ErneiR

        Comment


        • #5
          I'm on the side of 'normal'. On my '50 flathead, I depress the accelerator to the floor and then start it. I DO NOT touch the accelerator again until the engine is running smoothly, maybe 30 seconds or so. If I do touch the accelerator before the engine smooths out, it will cough and die 2 or 3 times.

          '50 Champion, 1 family owner

          Comment


          • #6
            I would check the accelerator pump action. I wonder if the bowl isn't holding enough gas to refill the accelerator pump after the car has set over a day. Wait a few days and see if the accelerator pump can even deliver two shots before you start it. Maybe the bowl is draining out almost all of the gas, leaving fuel in the accelerator pump and only enough in the bowl to idle for a few seconds. By then, the fuel pump has delivered enough gas for the bowl to fill up and the accelerator pump to refill.

            Comment


            • #7
              I'll cut a piece of foil and put it between the carb and the manifold and put the carb back on and leave it a couple of days and see.


              7G-Q1 49 2R12 10G-F5 56B-D4 56B-F2
              As soon as you find a product you like they will stop making it.

              Comment


              • #8
                quote:
                You need to put a 600 Edelbrock on it...oops wrong thread .
                *Ponders for a minute*

                Ohhhhh Greggggggg [)]

                I have this problem with the 50 pickup, except its got the BBR-1 with the manual choke. It seems a couple squirts from a fuel can and a little feathering with the accelerator and its running after a couple of tries. Different strokes for different folks though as I kick the pedal a couple of times before cranking the engine, and then I feather it until it can hold idle on its own.




                1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
                1950 Studebaker 2R5 with 170 turbocharged
                [img=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00003.jpg?t=1171152673[/img=left]
                [img=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00009.jpg?t=1171153019[/img=right]
                [img=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00002.jpg?t=1171153180[/img=left]
                [img=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00005.jpg?t=1171153370[/img=right]
                1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
                1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
                1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
                1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

                Comment


                • #9
                  It sounds to me as though the fuel is evaporating out of the bowl between starts. Some of the gas will be trapped in the accel pump which will give you enough to start it, but not enough to draw into the carb once it does start until the fuel pump catches up. The new gas is prone to rapid evaporation.
                  sals54

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X