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  • Racing mechanical fuel pumps

    Came across these in the Hemmings weekly newsletter:

    http://www.racepumps.com/

    Wonder if they have something that would be able to adapt to a Stude? Seems like they'd be more dependable, more efficient, and more tolerant of modern fuels. I'll use aftermarket electrics when necessary, but frankly don't like or trust them. I wonder if something like this would be a better solution.

    Anyone have any experience with these?

    Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
    Parish, central NY 13131

    "With your Lark you're on your own, free as a bird, alive as a Lark. You've suddenly discovered that parking is a pleasure, traffic is a breeze, turning's no trick at all, and happiness is a thing called Larking!"




  • #2
    Hi, Bob,

    This was featured in HRM some time back. When I looked at their site, it appears the pump and regulator will run close to $500. Then, someone talented has to make it fit and work on the Stude. What is your estimate of the CASO market for $750 fuel pumps?

    thnx, jack vines

    PackardV8
    PackardV8

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    • #3
      You make a good point, Jack... but cost aside, I wonder if it would be a viable alternative to stock? I see it as a possible upgrade, taking advantage of technological advances, like a dual-master cylinder, aftermarket disc brakes, electronic ignition conversions, etc.

      I'm building a far-from-correct 62 Daytona Super Lark clone; although there were none in 62, I like the roofline better than the 63. The car will look as close to stock as possible, right down to the hubcaps; but I'm interested in any upgrades that will improve reliability and servicability, i.e. the TREMEC 5-spd. with the stock shifter stick disguising the Pro shifter. I'm not sure I'm willing to spend the money for one of these pumps; I'm just wondering if it would be worth doing from an upgrade/improvement standpoint.

      Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
      Parish, central NY 13131

      "With your Lark you're on your own, free as a bird, alive as a Lark. You've suddenly discovered that parking is a pleasure, traffic is a breeze, turning's no trick at all, and happiness is a thing called Larking!"



      Comment


      • #4
        The small block MOPAR should bolt on.

        JDP/Maryland
        64 R2 GT (Sid)
        spent to date $62,839.60
        63 Daytona HT/4 speed
        63 Lark 2 door


        JDP Maryland

        Comment


        • #5
          Do a search of the forum; someone posted some pics in one of the previous fuel pump threads of a 3-valve Carter pump that you can bolt the valve body onto your existing R1/R2 body, reusing the old arm and diaphragm.

          nate

          --
          55 Commander Starlight
          http://members.cox.net/njnagel
          --
          55 Commander Starlight
          http://members.cox.net/njnagel

          Comment


          • #6
            quote:Originally posted by N8N

            that you can bolt the valve body onto your existing R1/R2 body, reusing the old arm and diaphragm.
            That would kind of defeat the purpose, wouldn't it? The race pump is claimed to be much lighter, more efficient, and the design is easier on the cam eccentric as it takes much less effort to pump- which also suggests better reliability.

            For me, the first step in the process of deciding if I wanted one is to look at the engine in the assembled car and decide if the aesthetics would bother me; and I'm no where NEAR that, seeing I don't even have the engine home yet[:I] Just thinking ahead......

            Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
            Parish, central NY 13131

            "With your Lark you're on your own, free as a bird, alive as a Lark. You've suddenly discovered that parking is a pleasure, traffic is a breeze, turning's no trick at all, and happiness is a thing called Larking!"



            Comment


            • #7
              After looking at the pump, it would appear that you'd need to have a custom piece machined to make it work - the BB Chevy and RB MoPar use the same mounting flange as a Stude but the pushrod length would have to be changed and also made to be a solid part of the pump plunger (you couldn't use a seperate pushrod on a Stude as there is no support for it) This also ASSumes that the centerline of the pump bore would be pointing toward the center of the camshaft.

              What might be neat would be to gut a roller lifter and use that as the pump/lobe interface, ASSuming it would work at all.

              nate

              --
              55 Commander Starlight
              http://members.cox.net/njnagel
              --
              55 Commander Starlight
              http://members.cox.net/njnagel

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks Bob that is a neat pump, other than the cost. It could mount where the early V8 pump did, up top at the oil fill, a tube for the push rod holder and like N8N says use a roller lifter to push the rod.
                may not be pretty, may have to much heat but could make it work pretty cheaply. How big is the part you see? Might hide it in a partial flow oil filter. Now I am getting goofy.

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