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60 lark 8

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  • 60 lark 8

    Hi everyone! It's been awhile since I've been here. I have been working on my 39 Dodge business coupe ever since my lark's water pump went south and threw a fan blade though the hood (at 70+miles an hour on the freeway.

    Well...I thinks it's time to put her back on the road, especially with gas prices the way they are and will continue to be (the Lark seems to get about 20-25 MPG) First off, I need a carb. This one has been built too many times and dosen't seem to have any life in it. It's a Stromberg 2 barrel. Any suggestions as to a good replacement? Anyone have one they are looking to unload?

    Second, I obviously need a new water pump. Does the Stude 259 have a sister pump from another make of car? Anyone have one they want to unload?

    Also, I could use a decent radiator , as mine has been braised ten too many times and I'm tired of pulling it for short term repairs. Agaian....anyone? Or perhaps, another interchangable radiator from a different make?

    Whew! Okay, I also have a small leak in the rear main engine seal that leaks just enough to keep my clutch nice and lubed. Is itm really feasable to try and run a rope seal through it ....or should i pull the motor?

    And last but not least ..... I found a list by one of the members here a while ago that list interchangable parts from other makesthat fit stude. Can anyone point me to that?

    Thanks once again everyone for all the help you give me!

    Jason

  • #2
    While any Stude V8 water pump will fit, these pumps weren't shared with any other make of car.
    NEW/REBUILT pumps are plentiful from our various Stude parts vendors. I sure wouldn't wanna get some second hand thing with who knows how much life left in it![xx(]

    Radiator? Have it re-cored. It's gonna coat a couple hundred at least, but when you consider the price that scrap brass is bringing these days![:0]

    I MAY have a core Stromberg carb lyin' about. I think you could buy a nicely redone one from Dave T-bow in MASS. I strongly vote against finding some "rebuilt" off ebay or from some old car parts place. Likely as not, all the gaskets and accelerator pump would be shrunk up from years on some backroom shelf somewhere![8]

    Miscreant adrift in
    the BerStuda Triangle

    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe

    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

    Comment


    • #3
      Carb: I agree with Biggs. Or alternatively, get a 4 barrel manifold and a NEW 500 CFM Edelbrock 4 barrel. Keep your foot out of it, and it will get good mileage.

      Water pump: ditto what Biggs said. Go to the home page on this Forum,a dn find a link to the vendors' page.

      Radiator: recore.

      Rear main seal leak: short answer, live with it. Longer answer, often it's the pan gasket, not the rear main seal, that's leaking. In any case, Studebakers used a Brummer 2-piece neoprene seal, not a rope seal. You can change it if the engine is in the car, but it's a chore. Live with it!

      Nate Nagel has some interchange lists. A lot of stuff simply DOES NOT interchange; some common parts do. It's recommended that you deal with the Studebaker vendor(s) of your choice, even for those items that DO have interchanges, simply because the cash flow keeps them around for that time you need a part that ISN'T on the interchange list.

      Judging by the nature of the questions you ask, Yesca, I'm guessing you don't belong to SDC, and don't receive Turning Wheels, the club's EXCELLENT monthly magazine. Turning Wheels has a big advertising section devoted entirely to cars, parts, and related paraphernalia. If you plan to own and drive a Studebaker, membership in SDC is the best investment you can make. Trust me on this, if you are not in SDC, you are out of the loop, and you are going to wind up spending many times over in excess parts cost, or excess labor cost, for the same work as you would pay as a member, simply because you are cut off from the knowledge base.

      Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
      Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

      Comment


      • #4
        Being that you are in San Diego, according to your "profile", here
        is the link to the San Diego Chapt: www.studebakersandiego.com
        of which "StudeDave57" of this forum, is the VP. The following
        is the SDC National link: http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/

        glen Brose - Perkinsville, AZ

        Comment


        • #5
          I think T-bow will swap out your Stromberg WW core with a beautiful new carb for $175. Give him a call eastern time zone, (978) 897-3158.
          "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

          Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
          Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
          sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

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          • #6
            RE: rear main seal leakage. Of course, it CAN be the rear mail seal - and it can be the pan gasket as gordr says. But it can ALSO be the lifter valley cover or even the valve covers leaking. These will have their leakage run down the back of the engine block (where you can't see it) and then run right down where a rear main seal leak would run.[}]

            Miscreant adrift in
            the BerStuda Triangle

            1957 Transtar 1/2ton
            1960 Larkvertible V8
            1958 Provincial wagon
            1953 Commander coupe

            No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

            Comment


            • #7
              Another issue with the Stromberg two barrel carbs is leakage at the throttle shaft, which drips raw gas onto the top of the manifold and makes tuning nearly impossible due to air leakage. Finding one that doesn't leak is pretty hard, and re-bushing the throttle shafts is somewhat expensive (see above posting) unless you're a machinist or good friends with one. But it's probably cheaper than a replacement 4 bbl carb and manifold and air cleaner. The replacement with a new 2bbl is probably a best move. "Rebuilding" a stromberg with new gaskets and accelerator pump is pretty easy, finding a kit may not be. Studebaker vendors are probably best source. Be careful on buying any replacement as to location of the automatic choke housing - they come both high and low and are not interchangeable. Also be sure to get a matching air cleaner horn on the carb - there are at least 2 different styles. I don't know of anyone who has ever come up with a workable replacement for a stromberg 2bbl carb that fits on the Stude. Good luck, and please repost with your solution. We might learn from your experience.

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