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Pulling the engine - a question

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  • Pulling the engine - a question

    Hey guys,

    I'm shooting for the first week of November to pull the 259 out of my Lark and schlep it up to StudeKen.

    I want to pull just the block and leave the trans in the car, so I've been reading the proceedure in the shop manual and am stumped by its description of how to separate the engine and the trans. The engine removal proceedure says "Remove the converter drive plate-to-torque converter bolts as described under Flightomatic in the Transmission section", but when I get there all I can find is proceedures for pulling the trans, and lots of talk of removing crossmembers and such.

    Can anyone tell me, in a simple fashion that will penetrate my thick, thick skull [)] , what's the proceedure for doing this?

    Thanks!


    [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

    Clark in San Diego
    '63 F2/Lark Standard
    http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

    Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

  • #2
    Save yourself a lot of work, smashed fingers and swearing, just pull both engine and tranny. Easier and faster.

    Comment


    • #3
      Alan is right on this. If you pull the engine and tranny together, you just need to unbolt and lift the doghouse out of the way, remove the radiator and support frame as a unit, unbolt the engine and tranny, put a chain and hoist on it and lift. Believe me, it is also a lot easier to assemble the engine and tranny outside of the car when you put it back together. I have done this job alone twice, just needed help lifting the front clip and hood out of the way, and that only because I didn't want to damage the paint. Keep track of the shims under the radiator and the front fenders to help with body panel realignment when you put it back together.

      Comment


      • #4
        One of the big advantages to doing it this way is when you go to put it back together, it is a lot easier to get the torque converter mated up to the engine and trans without damaging the seals.

        Tim K.
        '64 R2 GT Hawk
        Tim K.
        \'64 R2 GT Hawk

        Comment


        • #5
          OK, this is interesting

          How do you go about removing the front clip as a unit? What do you unbolt and where?


          [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

          Clark in San Diego
          '63 F2/Lark Standard
          http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

          Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

          Comment


          • #6
            Well, unbolting and removing the front clip WILL make it easier to remove the engine, BUT.... I don't think it's necessary. Just remove the hood - take out the radiator and remove the distributor before lifting out that engine. Take the starter off too - makes it easier to get around the exhaust pipes if you've got a single exhaust setup.
            Be prepared with a big pan to catch what runs outta the tranny tailshaft as you hoist the engine upwards.
            But the trouble of reinstalling that front clip and the chances of chipping and scraping the paint would make me leave it in place.[8D]

            Miscreant adrift in
            the BerStuda Triangle!!

            1957 Transtar 1/2ton
            1960 Larkvertible V8
            1958 Provincial wagon
            1953 Commander coupe
            No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

            Comment


            • #7
              I agree with Bob/Mr.Biggs. That is the way that I have done it.

              Scribe mark the hood bolts and then remove them to facilitate hood realignment. Pull the distributor and remove the radiator and fan. Remove engine and transmission as a unit. Of course, first you have to disconnect anything attached to the engine/transmission, like exhaust, wiring, linkage, etc.

              Gary L.
              Wappinger, NY

              1959 DeLuxe pickup (restomod)
              Gary L.
              Wappinger, NY

              SDC member since 1968
              Studebaker enthusiast much longer

              Comment


              • #8
                Just lift it out way nose high. Once it's clear of the firewall you may have to lift the tailshaft over the crossmember.


                Studebaker On The Net
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                Arnold Md.
                64 Daytona HT
                63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
                63 GT Hawk
                63 Avanti R1/AC
                63 Avanti R2 (Sold)
                63 Daytona HT
                63 Lark 2 dr.
                62 Lark 2 door
                60 Lark convert
                60 Hawk
                59 3E Truck
                57 Silver Hawk
                53 Starliner
                52 Starliner
                51 Commander
                JDP Maryland

                Comment


                • #9
                  One thing to remember - when you split the engine & gear box, make sure the torque converter stays with the gear box. Also, make a bracket to hold the converter, so it doesn't rest solely on the g.box input shaft. I use a piece of scrap angle-iron and some packers, bolt it to the bell housing and the converter.
                  The auto-specialists explained it to me as a precaution to avoid potential converter seal problems. If you are going to refurbish the auto, it doesn't matter. The converter has to come off anyway, and will need a new seal.
                  /H

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    You might also want to see about finding a front driveshaft yoke. Put it in the trans after you remove driveshaft. Keeps the fluid where it belongs and not all over the floor.
                    Bob

                    Own '53 Commander Starliner. Red w/beige top. 350 Chev/700R4. Tilt,cruise,A/C.
                    Own \'53 Commander Starliner. Red w/beige top. 350 Chev/700R4. Tilt,cruise,A/C.http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j30/Bobphyl/StudeontheBeach.jpg

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      An old plastic bag over the tailstock held in place with rubber bands will do in a pinch too.
                      Todd


                      63 Lark 2dr Sedan

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I picked up my 321cu.in. Stude engine from StudeKen this morning (where Clark's gonna have his engine redone). Thought you might appreciate seeing it in all it's glittering glory. Note that I chose to use a 232 timing cover I had chromed since I plan on using an electric fuel pump on it.
                        It's overbored and uses AMC 304 slugs to fill up the 3&3/4" holes. These have been decked (the pistons) and the rod little ends reworked to grip the larger pins of the AMC pistons.
                        R3 valves play in concert with ported & polished heads and intake manifold. R3 headers let it exhale better. All this upper end stuff is orchestrated by a genuine Isky cam that is roughly equivalent to an R1. Of course, fuel is delivered by an AFB.
                        I'm hoping this'll put some zip in the '58 wagon soon. I've got an NOS HD flight-o-matic and a fresh high stall torque convertor to go with it. It should prove to be fun. [}][]
                        BTW, the engine had been overbored before I got it. The heads had been tweaked as well. In fact, it bears TWO serial numbers on it's block. One's an RS number and the other indicates it was modified to an R3 subsequently (and this is KNOWN to have happened in several cases).



                        Miscreant adrift in
                        the BerStuda Triangle!!

                        1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                        1960 Larkvertible V8
                        1958 Provincial wagon
                        1953 Commander coupe
                        No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Looking good Bob. Is that the block you were selling for $450 a while back?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Nope! That R2 block is still waiting for someone to give it a home![V]

                            Miscreant adrift in
                            the BerStuda Triangle!!

                            1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                            1960 Larkvertible V8
                            1958 Provincial wagon
                            1953 Commander coupe
                            No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Wow - that engine looks sweet [] Got my juices really running now to pull that sucka and get it built!


                              [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

                              Clark in San Diego
                              '63 F2/Lark Standard
                              http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

                              Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

                              Comment

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