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Engine rebuild questions.

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  • Engine rebuild questions.

    It appears the shop got too happy boring my engine out. The pistons slide easily in the bores with the 1" wide .002" shim. Should require 11-16 lbs, per the shop manual, I'd guess the pull was in ounces. I only have two 1/2" wide .003 feeler gauges, and the pull might be in the couple of pounds range there. Oddly two .004" blades won't allow the piston in the bore.

    In addition, all of the ring gaps are between .017 and .019 right out of the box, confirming the bores are too big. The only thing that may make it OK, is that my shop temps were about 55-60 F. Might that cause this? (yes everything was at shop temps.)

    Of course I'm tempted to build it anyway, but being at and beyond the outer limits of specs, I'm concerned that it'll be a waste of time and money. What do you think? Build it anyway? Find a new block or bigger pistons and rings? BTW I'd need to find somewhere some Champ 185 .040" pistons and rings if I was to bore it further.

    Ron Dame
    '63 Champ
    Ron Dame
    '63 Champ

  • #2
    quote:Originally posted by Ron Dame

    It appears the shop got too happy boring my engine out. The pistons slide easily in the bores with the 1" wide .002" shim. Should require 11-16 lbs, per the shop manual, I'd guess the pull was in ounces. I only have two 1/2" wide .003 feeler gauges, and the pull might be in the couple of pounds range there. Oddly two .004" blades won't allow the piston in the bore.

    In addition, all of the ring gaps are between .017 and .019 right out of the box, confirming the bores are too big. The only thing that may make it OK, is that my shop temps were about 55-60 F. Might that cause this? (yes everything was at shop temps.)

    Of course I'm tempted to build it anyway, but being at and beyond the outer limits of specs, I'm concerned that it'll be a waste of time and money. What do you think? Build it anyway? Find a new block or bigger pistons and rings? BTW I'd need to find somewhere some Champ 185 .040" pistons and rings if I was to bore it further.

    Ron Dame
    '63 Champ
    Ron,

    I have emailed you off-forum.

    Paul
    Paul
    Winston-Salem, NC
    Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

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    • #3
      I'd suggest an od mic on the piston skirt, and snap gauge/mic on the bore to ascertain the actual clearance. Feeler gages just don't cut it, IMHO. A newly rebuilt engine can accomodate several more thousandths skirt clearance and ring endgap than the oem blueprint specs, which are usually quite tight. Bear in mind that aluminum pistons expand a bit as they warm up. With slightly looser clearances, the engine will probably run stronger and have better fuel economy, anyway. What really kills new rings is
      using them on old pistons installed in corroded or tapered worn bores.

      Comment


      • #4
        I have a brand new cylinder bore mic that I will lend you...
        (or bring it to Asheville...I have to be in Hickory Wednesday)...
        We can measure what you have...
        (If my mic' goes small enough for your twerp Stude engine)...
        and compare it to your pistons (I have that size mic' too)...
        Let me know...(Only charge is for food and adult beverages)..
        Jeff[8D]



        quote:Originally posted by Ron Dame

        It appears the shop got too happy boring my engine out. The pistons slide easily in the bores with the 1" wide .002" shim. Should require 11-16 lbs, per the shop manual, I'd guess the pull was in ounces. I only have two 1/2" wide .003 feeler gauges, and the pull might be in the couple of pounds range there. Oddly two .004" blades won't allow the piston in the bore.

        In addition, all of the ring gaps are between .017 and .019 right out of the box, confirming the bores are too big. The only thing that may make it OK, is that my shop temps were about 55-60 F. Might that cause this? (yes everything was at shop temps.)

        Of course I'm tempted to build it anyway, but being at and beyond the outer limits of specs, I'm concerned that it'll be a waste of time and money. What do you think? Build it anyway? Find a new block or bigger pistons and rings? BTW I'd need to find somewhere some Champ 185 .040" pistons and rings if I was to bore it further.

        Ron Dame
        '63 Champ
        HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

        Jeff


        Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



        Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

        Comment


        • #5
          That'd be great Jeff. My problem is that so far, I've found no one locol that has any mics, and since I don't plan to build but this one engine, the investment in good gauges does not make sense, and cheap cr@p doesn't ever make sense.

          Let me check my schedule for the week Wednesday, and see what's what, but I sure appeciate the offer!

          Ron

          Ron Dame
          '63 Champ
          Ron Dame
          '63 Champ

          Comment


          • #6
            Ron, Are you located in Asheville, NC? I am about to have my 53 stude
            R11 ( 170) engine bored out locally. Which shop did you use? David

            Comment


            • #7
              Yes I am, where are you? The shop I used was at CarQuest, but the machinist ( the only employee of the shop) shut it down and went to NAPA's shop. I don't know of any others yet, but will be looking. Barnes and Reese, down on the river does whole engines, mostly round-track racing engines, but did build a friend's Volvo B20. And it is really sweet. I may end up having them do the whole thing for me, even though I wanted to as much myself as possible. They wn't just do general machine work without doing the whole thing.

              Ron Dame
              '63 Champ
              Ron Dame
              '63 Champ

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