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  • vapor lock

    I have never had vapor lock on this Studebaker untill this spring\winter. I believe it is related to the gas, 10% ethanol was added around here; no, the car is not drunk. How much diesel do you folks add to a tank to prevent vapor lock? Car runs and starts fine when cold, once warm and I shut down the hot engine, Upon restart the car sputters on acceleration,if I stop the car, engine stops. I removed the plug on top of the carb where the gas enters the carb, no gas. I run the electric pump 'till gas runs out the hole. The gas now bubbles in the hole. I replace the plug and the car will run on higher RPM, it will not idle. Suggestions???[V]

  • #2

    Vapor lock is one thing. The gas boil off is another, which we experienced back, 2-3 years ago. You can't block off the carb vent or it will go right into the engine. What we tried, was to remove the heat riser, but this will cause warm up problems, Next was to block off the heat stove under the carb. This REALLY causes warm up problems, so I added a manual choke and a MR Gasket #98 (1/2") insulating spacer under the carb. If your engine is in good shape, you can start right out using 3/4 choke and it will drive pretty well, and warms up quicker than leaving it sit.
    I also have an electric fuel pump (NAPA - ECHELIN 610-1050) on a switch, which helps engine stumbling because of vapor lock. Recently, the fuel line was rerouted away from the proximity of the engine to avoid heat soak. Now it comes off the fuel pump and angles up to the fender apron then over top to the carb.

    Bob Johnstone
    64 GT Hawk (K7)
    1970 Avanti (R3)

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    • #3
      I can't really tell you how to fix your problem, but I can tell you that every time I've tried to use ethanol in any of my older cars, (here in Iowa, it has been around forever) I have had trouble with their idle speeds. I believe it might have something to do with the alcohol evaporation rate. (I'm just guessing here) My suggestion is to NEVER use ethanol in any of these vehicles, not only for the reason you have mentioned, but because the burn temp is higher, and over time, I have heard that this stuff can ruin valves. (I have never experienced this, but I have heard stories from some older friends.) It should not be used in anything not formulated to run on it. If you can, get gas without ethanol. IMHO the stuff is horrible and gets lousy mileage anyway.


      She may have bugs and she may have dings, but that just proves I drive this thing!!

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      • #4
        Something else everyone should know about ethanol. If it sets over time, the chemical bonds break down creating water. If it sets for more than a few months, you will have condensation in your gas tank and a tank full of bad gas. This causes trouble with how it runs and corrosion in the lines and fuel tank. Yeah, Ethanol is great stuff!!


        She may have bugs and she may have dings, but that just proves I drive this thing!!

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        • #5
          Curt, a gallon of diesel when filling an empty tank. It don't hafta be super-accurate. SOME more or less, it'll still go down the road.

          Miscreant adrift in
          the BerStuda Triangle

          1957 Transtar 1/2ton
          1960 Larkvertible V8
          1958 Provincial wagon
          1953 Commander coupe

          No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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          • #6
            I'm going to check the carb. The brass screen in the carb at the fuel inlet has a few small brass strands loose. I could have a blockage, so clean the carb just in case a passage is plugged up. I ordered a Mr Gasket#98, and will put diesel in as may be indicated after the car is running again. I had the heat riser valve removed several years ago when it kept seemed to get stuck. I will let everyone know the out come next week. If rain, I will not drive 'till the roads are dry.

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