Climatizer Pan

[Jeff_H]

Leroy,

Well, I got under the car after I got home today and took a look. There is no hump or raised area I could feel. Took another look at my old photos too and did not see anything. I replaced the floors in the car and made the cut along the inside edge of the innermost of the 3 ribs so maybe it got cut out if it was that far out?? If it "looked" like a dent that could have come from driving over something rather than a stamped in feature with edges I may have hammered it flat too. Its only been about 13yrs ago I did the floor work there! Seems to me if it sticks up into the car 1-1/2 inches it would be pretty noticeable. I am going to say I am 80% certain my car did/does not have it.

With #26 I bet your car does not have any lead filler on the C piller or by the seam near the trunk hinges. I have seen at least 2 cars I think like that. One was a fairly rusty but complete champion C body with very faded original paint. Don't know what body number it was tho. That was in '94 and the guy who had it sold it along with a '60 hawk shell.

Jeff in ND

'53 Champion Hardtop

[leroy]

Jeff you are right about no lead at either seam. I saw one at the detroit int. meet that had I think the trunk seam filled but not the top seam. It's body # was around 175. Another thing this car only has 2 bolts on the rear of front fender where it bolts to the door post, as you know others have 3.

Your car has a high # to not have the hump. the hump is to the interior of the car and ends at that 1st floor rib you mentioned.
I have some others here I need to check them. thanks for looking.

[wdsj]

I removed the heater pan from my 59 Silver Hawk and had the experience. The heater pan came loose, I could raise it up a few inches in the back, but not enough to pull it out. I removed mine by cutting the floor since I planned to replace the floor anyway. What I found was the pan was spot welded to the tube. They were one rigid piece. My tube also had a dent in it which I assumed I had hit something (still have not figure out the purpose of the dent). I replace the pan and tube by drilling out the spot welds and separating the tube from the pan. Then replace the tube, install the pan and connect the pan to the tube with rivets.

With hindsight, I think I could have drilled out the welds first, separated the pan from tube and removed without cutting the floor.
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Correction - after reading every item in this post. I cold have removed the crossmember first. I could then have taken it out and it would have been easier to replace. Especially since I ended removing the crossmember anyway.

Dell
59 Silver Hawk
62 GT Hawk

[rockfoot]

Yea,it would definately not come out without cutting or removing something... I removed the crossmember and was able to tilt the back up and even then it was still tight,as the frame flares out on the bottom and presented and obstacle there too....the pan and tube was in excellent condition. The floor 5" forward of the pan is shot... leaking door gaskets and vent probably contributed to that. I think the pillar support is going to have to be replaced along with the floor. The only other rust was in the trunk at the supports. I plan to lift this body and was advised to replace the floor pans and trunk body supports before lifting the body.... I guess that will be another thread...Thanks for your input..[] RB

1955 President one owner
Moncks Corner, SC

[wdsj]

Did you figure out any purpose for the dent? Or maybe it is just a common place to get thumped by something.

Dell
59 Silver Hawk
62 GT Hawk

[rockfoot]

I did not have the dent... that was those thread hi-jackers that had the dent...tee hee

1955 President one owner
Moncks Corner, SC