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259 auto to std trans question

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  • 259 auto to std trans question

    I was just told today that in order to convert my auto backed 259 to run a std trans I would have to remove the crank in order to install longer bolts to attach the pressure plate. Is this true?
    Todd


    63 Lark 2dr Sedan

  • #2
    No, but you do need to remove the pan and rear main cap.


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    • #3
      Only need to remove the pan and rear main cap or you can drill and tap the crank and use 7/16" bolts inserted from the rear. If you do this, just use a hacksaw or cutter blade to remove the present bolts.

      Ted

      quote:Originally posted by tstclr

      I was just told today that in order to convert my auto backed 259 to run a std trans I would have to remove the crank in order to install longer bolts to attach the pressure plate. Is this true?
      Todd


      63 Lark 2dr Sedan

      Comment


      • #4
        Ted,

        Do you tap them fine or coarse thread??

        Thanks,

        rob

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        • #5
          Hey Todd,
          As implied, the crankshaft does not need to be removed but as implied remove the pan and rear cap. the flywheel requires longer bolts. I will also stress to you the importance of dial indicating the standard shift bellhousing to the block, I've forgotten how close it's supposed to be, but shop manual will tell you. Doin this will eliminate many small problems down the road,such as strange vibrations, jumping outa gear,excessive pilot bearing failure,front seal,gear damage and on and on. My old brain is trying to say it should be within 3thousands. Shop manual will tell ya how or I'm sure all the knowledge and experience of all the forumites will explain. Hope this helps.
          Kim

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          • #6
            I personally would use fine thread for the crank bolts. I have modified some standard Grade 8 bolts to work in the place of the factory "stickshift" bolts, if you don't like the idea of tapping the crank. You just need to grind one flat of the head deeper so that it will seat properly on the crank. It is easiest to do this if you have the crank off the engine, or a spare crank laying around, but if not, just make sure that the bolt fits flat against the rear flange and doesn't catch on the little step in the metal. The book says 1-13/64" but I think I used 1-1/4" bolts and they did not interfere with the clutch plate.

            nate

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            • #7
              Thanks for the info! Without you guys I'd be considering an automatic!

              Todd


              63 Lark 2dr Sedan

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              • #8
                I suggest fine but suppose coarse would work butwould use lock tight.

                Ted

                quote:Originally posted by rayoung55

                Ted,

                Do you tap them fine or coarse thread??

                Thanks,

                rob

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