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T5 world class transmission conversion 58 Provincial SW

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    Excellent job Kerry, I have never seen a description of a T5 "How to do it", THIS GOOD!
    Forget the Wagon though, I want that Nice Block BUILDING For sale.
    I wonder how much, to get it FedEx'd from Florida to Washington!

    I think you HAD the answer way back in Post # ONE on the Best Clutch Housings to use though:

    QUOTE: " **** Note from Stude Rich post- (truck bellhousing)
    It's the housing for a '56-'64 V-8 Truck with a T-89 (T-85 type) 3 speed Manual or Overdrive Trans. (in the Studebaker Truck Parts Catalog.)"

    OR:

    The '57/'58, (3E) to 1964 (8E) WITH a T85 HD 3 Speed use a 1686171

    The '57/'58, (3E) to 1964 (8E) WITH a 259 and a T-98 "Conventional" 4 Speed use a 1687348
    in a Model: 2, 7, 12, 13, 28, 38 or 40

    The '57/'58, (3E) to 1964 (8E) WITH a 289 T-98 "H.D." 4 Speed use a 1687350
    in a Model 7, 13, 28, 38, or 40

    The '55, '56, '57/'58, (E, 2E-3E) with NP 5 Speed AND a Cast Iron Top Cover, use a 683547 Clutch Housing.

    The '57/'58, (3E) to 1964 (8E) WITH with NP 5 Speed AND a Aluminum Top Cover, use a 1687349 Clutch Housing.

    Yep, I see NOW, that was WAY too much work for nothing, because without the crossover Casting Numbers only available from the Original Blueprint, this is not much help, we can see differences but not WHAT changed.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kdancy
    replied
    here is a picture-
    https://1drv.ms/u/s!AlqXTowCsi4Uh7VqztnFStBT_KtsCQ

    Leave a comment:


  • Kdancy
    replied
    The owner, Bill Schroeder, picked up the wagon and took it back home. Here is a note from him-

    "We drove the car around the block and it drives like a dream. Tires and wheels are next."
    Click image for larger version

Name:	Car show 2019 Live Oak.jpg
Views:	121
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ID:	1813525

    Leave a comment:


  • Kdancy
    replied
    Just an update--
    I have taken several short trips to test and sort things out. The transmission shifts good but the clutch is a little on the stiff side.
    Next time I think I would try a diaphragm clutch pressure plate. Or take more time and go the hydraulic clutch route. But it is doable as is.
    I used a standard duty borg and beck setup.
    I really like the location of the shifter handle and glad we changed the tailshaft to move the shifter handle forward.
    Now, waiting on the new radiator to swap over and replacement gear reduction starter, first one bad.
    More on the starter, it is 8lbs vs 22 lbs for the stock stude one. Much shorter and fits good behind the R3 exhaust with no fitment problems. Turned the motor over
    as well as the stock one. Had to pull it back after 25 or so starts as the starter motor would run, the solenoid would pop out but would not turn. Bad armature gear.
    I will switch all mine over as I work on them.
    Also changed the single mc over to a remote fill Wilwood dual chamber mc. Works well.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kdancy
    replied
    Ok, just ordered a custom made speedo cable with the correct female ends to work on the speedo and the trans. 60"
    https://speedometercablesusa.com/cab..._assembly.html

    Leave a comment:


  • Kdancy
    replied
    Ok, guys, I thought I would try modifying the original clutch linkage and see how well it works. If I'm not satisfied, the hydraulic system will be the next try. Using some 1/8" scrap that was pop riveted to the floor by a prier owner, I cut out a plate and welded in the ball joint from the original linkage. Here is the album.
    https://1drv.ms/a/s!AlqXTowCsi4Uh60PM-EbpEqEl10tCQ
    https://1drv.ms/a/s!AlqXTowCsi4Uh6tMofZ76_e2DP_WnA

    Now I have to come up with a speedometer cable that will work. The original Stude has the push in gear housing, while the T5 has the screw on style. Is there a stock one that will work or just have one made up with the correct speedo head fitting and trans fitting?
    Last edited by Kdancy; 09-30-2019, 04:00 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • sweetolbob
    replied
    2X with Allen and Jack. Used a hydraulic setup on my 74 Avanti T56 and it works great. I used the complete Chevy master/slave setup to a modified clutch petal but that would be tough to do in your case but I would chose the TO bearing option for yours.

    Leave a comment:


  • PackardV8
    replied
    Originally posted by Kdancy View Post
    Do you have a better idea?
    A hydraulic clutch. Using a second brake master beside your regular master with longer bolts. And make a little bracket to hold a Chrysler slave to the Stude bell housing.
    As usual, Alan is correct on the second brake master cylinder. I take it further and use a hydraulic throwout bearing.

    jack vines




    Leave a comment:


  • Alan
    replied
    A hydraulic clutch. Using a second brake master beside your regular master with longer bolts. And make a little bracket to hold a Chrysler slave to the Stude bell housing.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kdancy
    replied
    Click image for larger version

Name:	T5 Clutch linkage.JPG
Views:	351
Size:	102.1 KB
ID:	1803061Have the T5 installed and now must figure out the clutch linkage to bell housing.
    The original clutch linkage came out from a flex connector next to the frame,
    Ran over towards the trans and the bar end slipped into another linkage piece that was bolted to a boss on the bottom of the original
    T86. Of course I can not do this on the T5. It looks like I will need to shorten (1) the bar coming off the frame linkage and move the original transmission
    Linkage mount over towards the frame, thus giving me a straight shot. I am thinking about building a mount that goes from one side of the frame to the other side, then drilling out two holes for the linkage stabilizer (2), this will run under the trans and allow the rod mount cup to be moved towards the drivers side of the trans.
    Do you have a better idea?
    installed in 58 wagon
    Last edited by Kdancy; 09-20-2019, 08:14 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kdancy
    replied
    Here are some Jalopy Journal forum notes--
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...fusion.946860/

    https://matthewpoxon.wordpress.com/2...ng-conversion/

    http://www.inliners.org/Jack/T5tech.html
    Last edited by Kdancy; 09-19-2019, 06:21 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • clarkwd
    replied
    The S10 housing has to be reworked in order to keep the mechanical speedo drive.
    Could we get more details on this. Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • Kdancy
    replied
    Just a little update,
    We have the floor pans done. I used Classic pans and had to redo them somewhat to work correctly. They did not cover as much of the pan area as I
    hoped so we had to cut and weld some extra areas in.
    We mounted the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate and have the trans now bolted to the Stude V8. Looks like I will have to have about 3.5" taken out of the drive shaft or have a new one made up.
    The location of the shifter seems to be about ideal to me, misses the underdash AC unit and room for the bench seat.

    Leave a comment:


  • foggydogg
    replied
    I'm fooling with a Mustang T5 for another project, mine weighs about 72 pounds. As mentioned, the late model Tremec units are heavier.
    I shudder to think what the crash-box in my 2R10 weighs. I think I'll leave it alone.

    Leave a comment:


  • Alan
    replied
    I will dig one out of storage and check the numbers. Stude V8 1958 up trucks used at least 3 different register size. Our friend Craig 8E45E, put up a list one time giving all the sizes and numbers that would be a lot nicer than one casting number that I could find in my stash. If he would be so grateful to do so.

    Leave a comment:

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