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Replacing rear seal

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  • Rear Axle: Replacing rear seal

    I hope to hit this with my air impact wrench tomorrow to get to the leaky seal. Once the nut is off, you suppose I'll need a puller? I'm more concerned about replacing it, once the seal is fixed. I did something similar to an old Ranger and had to mind over-tightening so as not to scrunch the bearings within. Same with the 44?

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  • #2
    I have removed the trunion by tapping, not pounding, with a soft hammer - plastic, nylon, lead, dead blow.
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

    17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
    10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
    56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
    60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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    • #3
      Worked great, thanks, Roy!

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      • #4
        Any time, Tom. You are welcome.
        RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

        17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
        10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
        10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
        4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
        5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
        56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
        60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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        • #5
          But normally a puller is required. Impact to remove nut. I have a Studebaker pinion seal remover which is GREAT! Be careful installing new seal so you do not damage it. I also have the special tool for that job but one could be made and I have used a socket in the past.

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          • #6
            The crush ring is used in some designs to set bearing preload. Shouldn't be reused and must be tightened to a specific value. Our Spicers do not use that design.

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