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1963 GT Hawk Still overheating

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  • #16
    Answer to Joe Hall. It was 105 degrees out and I was at a 4 way stop backed up for about a mile. Solid 30 minutes of moving forward 1 car at a time. I drove it today at 95 degrees out--without stop and go, and she stayed right at 180-185. Based on this maybe an electric fan would be a good option for the stop and go. But would a 6 blade be as good? I could not stop where I was, I did pull over for 40 minutes after I got to a safe place to let it cool.

    Studerich:
    I have to wonder what you mean by a New "Electronic" Temp. Gauge. I mean its electrical versus mechanical. I had to buy a new sending unit as well. Looks close to stock. "SW Classic". Did use a Lazar temp gun prior to replacing radiator (and all the other parts I went ahead and replaced).
    Last edited by CampbelHawk; 08-21-2019, 08:13 PM.

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    • #17
      Looking at your photo, you are missing the flexible, rubber like baffle that goes on the bracket your hood prop rod is attached to and seals to the hood.

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      • #18
        Check your spark modifier, mine failed and my normal cool running engine overheated.

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        • #19
          I see the baffle in place, but missing the rubber seal which helps seal the gap between the hood and baffle. Also see an OEM 4-blade fan. The strongest fn you can install (with minimum hassle) is the stock HD, six blade fan as used in trucks and some HD applications on cars. It will draw more air through the radiator at idle and low speeds, and also make much more noise, especially when above 2000 RPM. They are available as repro at SI, I believe.

          However, the baffle rubber and 6-blade fan combined will not be anywhere near as much of a game changer as a 16" electric pusher fan, when idling or at low speeds. Rumor has it that the pusher fan causes the car to run hotter at road speeds, but that's just a rumor.

          From what I can see of the engine bay, yours looks like an honest to goodness, driven car. Those are getting more rare everyday. I am sure you will eventually get the bugs ironed out, and come to know the car's strengths and weaknesses as you continue to drive it. Congrats and enjoy!

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          • #20
            105 degrees, prolonged idling, stop an go. Doesn't sound like there is much, if anything wrong with your car. Just being subject to extreme conditions beyond its OEM designed normal operating range. Not a criticism, as my tow vehicles suffered the same under such conditions.
            If you cannot avoid operation at temperatures above 100, it would be advisable to install a good quality electric pusher fan.
            Old guy here, when my belt failed to hold up my pants, I added suspenders. Now my pants no longer fall down

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            • #21
              In an emergency you can turn the heater on for max heat and fastest fan speed to help cool the engine. Keep the A/C off of course.

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              • #22
                Heater on made me chuckle. Thirty + years ago I got talked into putting my 55 Speedster in the West Seattle parade, by a friend. I wasn't too excited about putting the car in the parade. It was predicted to be unseasonably hot that day (90 degrees). The car was freshly restored and hadn't shown any tendency to overheat, but nothing like a parade. So I asked about how long the parade would last-I was told not more then 45-50 minutes, so I said OK. As we lined up three middle aged ladies in period costume piled in. After an hour we still hadn't completed half of the two mile route. I continued to watch the temperature gauge climb. At about an hour and a half into the parade, and still two blocks, and fifteen minutes away from completion, the temp gauge showed the high side of 210 degrees. With a 7# cap and open system I knew what to expect. I looked over at the unsuspecting women, in the passenger seat, mumbled an apology, and turned the heater on. What had been uncomfortable before, became miserable, but the temp stabilized at 210+. At the end of the route the lady beside me opened the door and bolted without saying a word, I never saw her again.

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                • #23
                  I had an overheating problem in one of my vehicles and I turned the heater on full and my wife said that is ridiculous to turn on the heater to cool the engine, it got me over the hill. I didn't try to explain it to her.

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                  • #24
                    1963 GT Hawk Still overheating

                    Click image for larger version

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ID:	1729312Think this is the baffle that seals the hood: 1312475 Rubber seal, above radiator. 1956-64 C & K. Steel staples included. ........$18.50 ea.

                    Response to JoeHall "From what I can see of the engine bay, yours looks like an honest to goodness, driven car. Those are getting more rare everyday. I am sure you will eventually get the bugs ironed out, and come to know the car's strengths and weaknesses as you continue to drive it. Congrats and enjoy!"

                    Drove it to work twice this week (I work on an Air Force base so feel safe with it in the parking lot). I find myself smiling the whole time I am driving.

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                    • #25
                      Follow-up on the thread. I ended up putting a electric radiator fan on the car. Absolutely made a difference! Keeps at 180-190 now at the lights.

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                      • #26
                        In our Texas heat it still might be a good idea to go ahead and add the baffle that is missing. Can't hurt and isn't a big job.
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                        • #27
                          The fan shroud looks fine. The baffle is in the front of the car, mounted on the radiator bracket. The flexible seal is stapled onto that. Like what was stated above, first start with a temp reader to confirm the overheating. You may be chasing a problem that doesn’t exist. Check the number of rows in your radiator looking inside with the cap removed. 3 rows is better than 2. You might consider adding a fan clutch and 5 blade fan too. Joe Hall above, has given excellent information.

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                          • #28
                            I should have noted I installed a baffle as well--$18 and 2 hours of work removing old staples and fashioning my own (the ones that came with baffle did not fit).

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                            • #29
                              This will help also.


                              Click image to open expanded view










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