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1963 GT Hawk Still overheating

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  • Cool/Heat: 1963 GT Hawk Still overheating

    So, new radiator, water-pump, thermastat, lower radiator hose, cleaned out block, and new SW Electronic Gauge....still overheating when I have to stop for long periods--maxes out gauge at 240...ugg. Next step is a new fan as she still has the 4 blade. I see there are 5 blade and 6 blade options on most of the Stude parts sites. What is a recommended replacement using the stock shroud? Other thoughts?

    Do either of these work?

    1692378 6-blade. Truck: Special order V-8 5E - 8E 7, 12, 13, 28, 40. Will also work as a heavy duty replacement on V-8 models requiring extra cooling. .............$75.00 ea.
    1556021U Used Fan Blade 5 blade, standard: All 1963-64 Avanti $75.00

    Lance

  • #2
    Do you have shroud? Another possibility is that the water manifold could have been eaten away by corrosion resulting in excessive water pump clearance.
    78 Avanti RQB 2792
    64 Avanti R1 R5408
    63 Avanti R1 R4551
    63 Avanti R1 R2281
    62 GT Hawk V15949
    56 GH 6032504
    56 GH 6032588
    55 Speedster 7160047
    55 Speedster 7165279

    Comment


    • #3
      I have the fan shroud in good condition. Will have to look at water manifold. Is it worth changing fan first?

      Comment


      • #4
        I do not recall if 5,6, or 7 blade fan will work without fan clutch. Unfortunately, I am not home so cannot check. If you remove the water pump, you should be able to determine how much erosion there is in the water manifold. The only reason I mentioned this is I had a time keeping an Avanti cool. Tried a couple of different stock 5 blade fans as well as 6 and 7. Even tried electric pusher fans. Was finally solved by replacing water manifold.

        If the manifold looks good, you could try a flex fan available at most FLAPS.
        78 Avanti RQB 2792
        64 Avanti R1 R5408
        63 Avanti R1 R4551
        63 Avanti R1 R2281
        62 GT Hawk V15949
        56 GH 6032504
        56 GH 6032588
        55 Speedster 7160047
        55 Speedster 7165279

        Comment


        • #5
          That’s good info—thank you.

          Comment


          • #6
            I installed a 6 blade on a 259 in a '60 Lark. No shroud involved. The fan just bolted on (no fan clutch).
            Howard - Los Angeles chapter SDC
            '53 Commander Starliner (Finally running and driving, but still in process)
            '56 Golden Hawk (3 speed/overdrive, Power steering - Running, but not yet driving)
            '62 GT Hawk (4 speed, A/C, Power steering - running and DRIVING!)

            Comment


            • #7
              Also make sure you have the radiator upper baffle and the flexible seal in place, so all the air is forced through the radiator.

              Comment


              • #8
                Also test your temperature sender. Could be sending your gauge inaccurate temperatures

                Comment


                • #9
                  I have to wonder what you mean by a New "Electronic" Temp. Gauge. I am hoping you really meant Electric, since Studebakers rarely have anything Electronic from the Factory, certainly NOT a Gauge.

                  Also be aware that the 5 Blade Fans mount to a Viscous Drive Unit, not to the Water Pump, so you will need that also.

                  The best thing to do is get a inexpensive Lazar Temp Reader and check the Top of the Radiator, Bottom and the thermostat Housing to compare to your dash unit, it may have an incorrect sending Unit.

                  If the Rad. is not plugged you should see at least a 20 difference top to bottom.

                  Be aware that "other Make" Flex Fans all have the wrong size (way too small) center Pilot requiring precision machining.
                  Last edited by StudeRich; 08-21-2019, 01:59 AM.
                  StudeRich
                  Second Generation Stude Driver,
                  Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Another consideration. I have experienced a situation where a head gasket leak exhibited similar symptoms. You should be able to get a kit at your FLAPS to test for exhaust gasses in the coolant.
                    78 Avanti RQB 2792
                    64 Avanti R1 R5408
                    63 Avanti R1 R4551
                    63 Avanti R1 R2281
                    62 GT Hawk V15949
                    56 GH 6032504
                    56 GH 6032588
                    55 Speedster 7160047
                    55 Speedster 7165279

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      By all means check temp with an infrared thermometer. C and K models- as well as some others- seem to have a problem with air going thru the radiator. I don't put mine in parades! I you are moving down the road they're fine but get caught in trffic and they heat up. Many have added an electric fan; be nice to hear how well that works but it would seem a logical and effective-if not quite original- fix.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by CampbelHawk View Post
                        So, new radiator, water-pump, thermastat, lower radiator hose, cleaned out block, and new SW Electronic Gauge....still overheating when I have to stop for long periods--maxes out gauge at 240...ugg. Next step is a new fan as she still has the 4 blade. I see there are 5 blade and 6 blade options on most of the Stude parts sites. What is a recommended replacement using the stock shroud? Other thoughts?

                        Do either of these work?

                        1692378 6-blade. Truck: Special order V-8 5E - 8E 7, 12, 13, 28, 40. Will also work as a heavy duty replacement on V-8 models requiring extra cooling. .............$75.00 ea.
                        1556021U Used Fan Blade 5 blade, standard: All 1963-64 Avanti $75.00

                        Lance
                        Lance, when you installed the new water pump, did you check the impeller clearance to the back of the water pump housing. Getting that correct can make a big difference.
                        John

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Years ago I ran one of those 6 blade truck fans on my '63 GT for a while; pretty noisy and really cut into my gas mileage.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Need more info for a realistic appraisal. You say, "still overheating when I have to stop for long periods--maxes out gauge at 240...ugg". When you say stop, do you mean prolonged idling? Or when restarted after shutdown for 20-30 minutes the gauge reads at 240?

                            I drove Studes year round in the California Desert for six years, so am familiar with hot weather operation. First, please understand your GT (in OEM configuration) will ALWAYS overheat if left idling long enough, in hot enough ambient temps. There are several things that can cause it to occur more rapidly, but it will always happen under severe enough conditions. In the 1980s-early 2000s there was a sign at the foot of a 16 mile upgrade from the desert floor near Palm Springs and going up to Morongo Basin. The sign said, "CAUTION, TO AVOID OVERHEATING TURN OFF AC FOR THE NEXT 16 MILES". Many modern car drivers ignored that sign, and many car overheated on that hill, but our Stude never did. Last time I was there, about 2015, that sign was gone, probably because modern cars are almost immune to overheating. But not so with older technology, especially our Studes. So in driving our Studes there are some things we must learn and accept, i..e we CANNOT expect them to idle for prolonged periods (much over 5-10 minutes) in terms above 90 degrees. The higher the ambient temp, the quicker the Stude will overheat.

                            There are a ew things we can do to avoid overheating: Install a 16" pusher fan with manual on/off switch, and turn it on anytime you must let the car idle more than 5 minutes; install a HD engine fan (several to choose from); know that a fresh rebuilt motor will run hotter for the first few thousand miles, so try to break it in during cooler weather; install the largest radiator available, i.e. "desert cooler"; leave the AC off when idling; run a smaller fan blade/wp pulley and/or larger crank pulley, etc..

                            NOTE: Most Studes will start to vapor lock between 225-240 degrees. If yours is still running at 240, that means you have good fuel flow and routing, which is good. However, be aware that you can gall the pistons and rings at temps of 240 and above. So you need to limit temps to 225 if at all possible, even if that means stop trying to drive the Stude and wait for cooler weather. I never had to do that, but if you cannot figure out how to cool yours down, it is advisable to just not operate the car under those conditions.
                            Last edited by JoeHall; 08-21-2019, 12:36 PM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              1963 GT Hawk Still overheating

                              Does this have the baffle? Appears to be a gap between shround and fan. Sorry for the ignorance. Inherited from my dad and I am trying to get her back in shape but I just don't know whats what on them.


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