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oil pressure gauge

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  • Speedo/Tach/Gauges: oil pressure gauge

    I'm still waiting for information from fellow club members about getting my low oil pressure checked and
    repaired, but in the mean time, I am following up on the suggestion about installing an actual oil pressure
    gauge in my Lark. One hang up I have about it is, it is not only not original to the car, I don't know of a
    way to install/attach one TO look reasonably period or at least, not like an afterthought.
    No offense to those of you who install extra gauges and don't think twice about it....

    I have a 2 1/4" tach attached to the steering column and that bothers me already, though I do use it and
    very much appreciate having it, adding another gauge hanging around the dash is bothersome. I've already
    imagined, in a perfect world, I would have replaced the original Lark speedo with a later Stude tach and then
    installed a cyclops speedometer, but that isn't going to happen.

    What have others done who do care about add on accessories in their car? (Yes, I understand, back in the
    day, owners added all sorts of gauges and didn't think twice about it)

  • #2
    The Standard aftermarket under dash Gauge "Panels" usually are for TWO Gauges, but single are available.

    If it were me I would add BOTH Gauges that are missing from '56 to '62 Sedans/Larks.
    You run the Main Power Feed from the Solenoid and the Voltage Reg. "Batt" Term. wire THROUGH an Ammeter and then to the Ignition Switch instead of direct as your car is wired.

    The Oil Pressure is an easier install using tubing from the Oil Pressure Sender Location in the right head to the gauge. You can even get fancy, and install a "T" to keep the Oil Warning Light!

    They fit on the Left of the Wheel to avoid the Glovebox or dropped below the Glovebox.

    This will look very MUCH "Period Correct", many Larks and Champs have been done that way.

    If I did not like so much having an Original Push button Studebaker Radio working or not, I might be tempted to put the Gauges on a Radio Blank-Out Plate like Stude. did on Champs to add the "Optional" Gauges.

    A different Option is, just screw the Oil Pressure Gauge into the Head, since you may only use it until you rebuild this Engine.
    Last edited by StudeRich; 08-15-2019, 08:23 PM.
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner


    • #3
      Interesting. I was not aware there was a gauge plate for the radio opening. My radio's non functioning and I like having the radio there, instead of the plate, but it did briefly cross my mind originally to put them there, when I first started considering adding the gauges.
      I don't remember seeing a factory plate with gauges in it before. I may have but it didn't register.


      • #4
        Different tack. my 62 hardtop has 2 gauges added to steering column in a "pod". 2 short lengths of exh. tubing welded to a split section that straddles the column. gauges sit in tubes and wiring/ tubing runs between column and dash bottom. whole thing is held in place by velcro strip and is easy to see. clock went away replaced by tach, 62 instrument cluster replaced by 63 cluster. added gauges are manifold pressure and water temp. Luck Doofus


        • #5
          Oil pressure gages can vary a lot from one to another. How low is low? Ceci's 62 runs 35 psi cold and cruise and about 10 psi warm idle. Of course I fret about it, but then I realized that if it had an idiot light instead of a gage, I wouldn't know it was running these pressures and I wouldn't worry! I guess it is just built looser than I intended. (I do hope I didn't blunder upon some of those infamous Chinese bearings.) Studebakers tend to have wildly fluctuating oil pressures. I do not know why. Dad had a '40 Commander that he said never had any oil pressure, but he drove it 5 years 'til he traded for a 50 Buick. A mechanic friend told me its the flow, not the pressure that is important. So be sure the pump is good (Phil Harris has rebuilt pumps that are good) There is an oil filter restricter also; if you don't have it you won't have much pressure. When you check that oil pump, pull a cap off or two to see if the Babbit metal is gone. If you see bronze, you need a crank kit pretty soon!


          • #6
            Checking the oil pump is the next step, but first, getting the oil pressure relief valve clean and reassembled properly. I just found out it hasn't had the spring in the passage and the plunger has been stuck towards the back of the passage for at least as long as I've owned the car, and likely for the time the PO I bought it from had it, so at least 8 years. Ordering a new spring Monday.


            • #7
              Jeffrey Cassel I too had the pressure you described and was afraid I might ruin the engine although it was supposedly rebuilt when I bought the car. I pulled the engine and it did have new pistons but every, main, and rod bearings had extreme wear thus the cause for low oil pressure. My thinking was it would be a shame to destroy the engine when preventable. The crank was standard and had to be ground .020. All is normal now with good pressure. Chet445


              • #8
                I see the gauge and parts needed for the oil pressure gauge, but that'll have to wait a week, since that adds up to almost $100,
                for the SW equivalent and needed bits.