Announcement

Collapse

Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage: www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
See more
See less

Separating a rear drum

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Wheels: Separating a rear drum

    I'm having a hard time getting the brake drum off my newly acquired '58 Scotsman with the TT. I have a trusty puller Ted Harbit sold me years ago but I'm afraid I'm going to break one of the ears off, wanging away with my four pounder. I've left it under load for the night, and dripped a little Kroil on the taper of the axle. I'm thinking this hasn't been apart in many years. I hesitate to add heat, thinking it could weaken the axle even a little... Just keep banging away at it?

  • #2
    You are whacking the head of the puller screw, too, aren't you? And you have the axle nut on, smooth face out, and flush with the end of the thread?
    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

    Comment


    • #3
      One thing that's worked for me...
      With a heavy load on the screw, smack the "end" of the screw (swinging "toward" the axle) with a coupla heavy smacks. Tighten the screw more, smack it again hard.
      The second or third hit on the end of the jack screw normally does the trick.

      Mike

      P.s. - Did you lube the jack screw well ?

      Comment


      • #4
        oh and be sure you're out of the way when it pops off, unless you have the nut on the axle flush with the threads to keep it from flying off and hurting you.

        Comment


        • #5
          Never have I had such a difficult case of drum removal. Greased the screw and have whacked the end 'till I've peened (sp?) it. Guess I'll need a heavier hammer.
          Makes me wonder if the drums have ever been off the rear end.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by tomnoller View Post
            Never have I had such a difficult case of drum removal. Greased the screw and have whacked the end 'till I've peened (sp?) it. Guess I'll need a heavier hammer.
            Makes me wonder if the drums have ever been off the rear end.

            Hi, not much experience with the Studebaker (mine came off easily), but I had a tough tie my Willys pickup. I ended up tightening my puller with a large breaker bar, smacking the end and letting it sit. I did that for several days and still would not budge. My puller is bent form the effort. I ended up heating it with MAPP gas until cherry red and bang! it came apart. It had such force, the other side axle came right out of the housing. I had broken that one loose first and left it loosely in place. So make sure you leave the nut on. I've seen others leaving the nut loosely on and driving around for a bit. Good luck.

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks, Topper. You inspired me to go whack it a couple dozen more times. As much as I'd like to heat the drum where it hugs the axle, I'd rather break my puller than possibly weaken the shaft.

              I'll just keep at it.

              Comment


              • #8
                OK before this gets too dangerous, here's another angle on it. you can maybe get the whole shebang off if you have to by cutting the bolts off the backing plate and removing the whole works. not sure it will work on yours, but I had to do it once. Then it goes to a machine shop press ( don't let them press against the drum lip.)

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by tomnoller View Post
                  Thanks, Topper. You inspired me to go whack it a couple dozen more times. As much as I'd like to heat the drum where it hugs the axle, I'd rather break my puller than possibly weaken the shaft.

                  I'll just keep at it.
                  It's not just you. I had a similar experience with my 60 Lark. Finally got it off, but it was a BEAR. I then was persuaded by a club member who de-swages his rear drums to do this to that drum. I used the 5/8" hole bit from the hardware store.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Finally popped off! A buddy at work swears by Freeze-Off from CRC. Got a can of it today and the drum came loose after letting it soak in a while. Whether or not it was ready on it's own, maybe it helped a little.
                    Thankful not having to go the machine shop route! I've already chased the threads on both the nut and axle and will likely have to on the puller. I'm having to hammer it loose!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      By "chase the threads" I hope you mean to reform them, and not run a tap and die, which cuts away good metal.
                      Unfortunately our local new and used tool store closed down a couple years ago, so it makes it tougher to find correct tools for the job now.

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X