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1960 Lark VI ignition switch

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  • Ignition: 1960 Lark VI ignition switch

    I thought I took clear enough pictures when I removed the switch months ago, but I evidently did not. I seem to have
    more wires going to the switch than show up on the wiring diagram, although I have a Regal with the ignition light?

    I have had problems with the battery sparking when I went to put the ground cable back on, so I know I have a wire going
    to the battery post that shouldn't be there. I got the cable to go on properly after removing 2 smaller wires to the switch.

    As best as I can determine, I know that I have the battery wire on the battery post, I have the Fan wire going to the
    Accessory post, I have an aftermarket tach and that power wire is on the Ignition post, but there are 2 wires from the loom,
    with round connector ends, and they are causing me trouble as to what they are and which post they should go on.

    One is white, the other black, both are the same smaller gauge. The white wire with the L connector is on the center post.
    Looking at the wiring diagram, I assume that one of the 2 wires goes to the Battery post and the other goes to the Ignition
    post, but I don't know which wire goes on which post.

    Anyone? Thank you.

  • #2
    This Diagram for a SIX Cylinder '60 Lark shows the Coil (+) Power from the "IGN" Term. is a Black W/Green Tracer wire.

    The white wire with the open spade connector could be the Ign. Sw. LIGHT GROUND Wire, if it already HAS a ground it is the Power to the Headlight Switch but the Black one is more likely to be that.

    Do test things FIRST with a Test Light before Smoke testing!

    A spark at the Battery Cable can be as simple as something is ON like a Door Open, Dome Light on, it does not always mean a short to Ground, but COULD be.

    The Center Post is the "Start" Post, the Red/White wire goes from there to the "S" small Term. of the Solenoid.
    Look CLOSER at your wire colors they have "Tracer" Colors and the Wiring Diagram. Here's a Good One:
    Last edited by StudeRich; 08-08-2019, 08:27 PM.
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner


    • #3
      Ok. We're on the roll here, but I don't have a pink wire...for whatever reason.

      Considering I don't have open spade connectors either, I can look to see if the white wire goes to
      the ignition light switch, thank you.

      The doors are closed, and the dome light has long been inoperative. Looking at the wiring diagram,
      I should have another wire to the ignition post, besides the tach wire, so depending on where the
      white wire might be found, that leads me to suspect the black wire likely goes to the ignition post.

      I'll double check, but I believed both of these wires went back into the larger loom in through the

      Being electrically inexperienced, to test the wires, I take the tester to one of the wires, and then
      to the battery post, turn the key to ON? I am asking about this here before I try to start the car
      and light up something under the dash that shouldn't light up....

      I don't have back up lights, so I should just have the black wire to the fan motor, on the Accessory
      post, which I do. I will look closer at the one black wire I have free, if it looks like there might be green
      on it, that seems like it's one that should be on the Ignition post.

      I'll see if I can trace a power wire from the headlight switch to the loom and possibly if it's that
      white wire, tomorrow. That will end up on the Battery post. If that allows me to put the negative
      lead on the battery without sparking, that should do the trick. Before I started the ignition switch
      removal process, things were fine and the sparking at the negative terminal did not happen.

      Thank you!


      • #4
        My mistake, the Pink resistance wire is only used on V8 Cars, a Six must have built-in Resistance in the Coil as it has no Resistance Wire like my V8's, so that is why the 6 Cyl. Diagram shows a Black with Green tracer stripe for ignition. I revised my Post.

        Please look at and enlarge the '60 Lark 6 Cyl. Wiring Diagram I forwarded to you.
        It shows another wire; White W/Black Tracer that goes to the Wiper Switch on the "ACC" term. with the Climitizer wire .

        Are you using a ultra bright LED Flashlight to "read" these wire tracer colors?

        To use a Test Light, you connect the alligator clip to a known ground (steel dash brace without a lot of paint) and use the Wire with the ice pic like end to probe a suspected HOT wire if it is, you get a Light in the Tester.
        If it is a "keyed circuit" the Key would have to be in "ACC" position, "IGN" could burn the points. if you must test that Ign. circuit do it QUICKLY in "Run" position.

        Also notice that almost ALL of the wires do go back into the under dash Harness, even if they only travel a short distance to the next component.
        So do not let that "fool you" into thinking they go under the Hood.
        Last edited by StudeRich; 08-08-2019, 10:05 PM.
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner


        • #5
          Point understood about where where wires go, or not, into the harness.

          "...Please look at and enlarge the '60 Lark 6 Cyl. Wiring Diagram I forwarded to you.
          It shows another wire; White W/Black Tracer that goes to the Wiper Switch on the "ACC" term. with the Climitizer wire ..."

          I didn't know how to read a wiring diagram with that white/black wire going into the small black circle connection at the long wire run...I saw that and for whatever reason, went left at that connection to the backup lights and didn't know to look towards the right of that wire run...or how to decide which direction one SHOULD take when a wire does go to a junction like that, with that small black dot.

          I'm generally using ambient light for looking at the wire ends.

          I'll be diving into it closer this evening....


          • #6
            After looking at the white wires with a bright light, at night, off angle, I could notice faint traces of jagged color
            on some wires. I've never seen wire marked that way though. When I read red/white, I am used to solid white and solid red color
            side by side.

            I got the wires on the right posts and the car started up and runs smooth. Thank you! We'll see tomorrow what sitting 6 months has done.

            One thing I found I haven't noticed in the past working on the ignition switch... there is a black ground wire that went to something
            but the one end is attached to the mounting screw to the instrument cluster pod and the other end is broken off. Its condition is similar
            to most of the original wiring. Is there an accessory that used that ground post that you know of? Was it attached to the radio maybe,
            considering how close that is?


            • #7
              Is there another accessory like the Ign. Switch Light, a Cigar Lighter or even the Clock (if equipped) that is farther across the dash, that would need a Good Ground? Since the black wire is broken, you do not know it's original length.
              I do not recall Radios having a ground wire, as there are several metal to metal ground points to the dash.
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner


              • #8
                Of those choices, it did come with the cigar lighter, although the wires from the lighter to the switch were not in the car
                when I got it. Something I'd like to get, but other priorities get in the way.

                It does have the ignition switch light, but it's been connected to the screw and light attachment to the side of the ignition
                switch since I've had the car.


                • #9
                  I believe I know what I did wrong. I have a Regal Lark. The ignition switch was replaced several months ago, I now have a memory of the
                  wire coming off the ignition switch bezel light falling off the light. I am 90% sure now what I did was run the power lead from that bulb into
                  the also broken off connector that should have been the ground to that light. THAT'S likely the ground wire hanging broken off.
                  Since the lead is black, I assumed it was a ground.