Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage:
See more
See less

Dash board removal 65

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Speedo/Tach/Gauges: Dash board removal 65

    I’m about to remove my old dash board for a reconditioned one in my 1965 cruiser, and was after some tips on removal. I was hoping to take out the instrument panel first to label all the gauge and switch wires first then the whole dash panel in one, is this the way? or dose the whole dash and instruments come out in one with tentacles of old wires to be disconnected afterwards. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Cheers

  • #2
    Depends on how limber you are and what you're trying to accomplish. If you take out the seat, you can lie down reasonably comfortably with your head under the dash. If you are only interested in removing the instrument cluster and the wiring is in good shape, you can remove the wires one at a time and then pull the cluster unattached. I did it that way and labeled each wire with a number on masking tape that corresponded to a hand-drawn map of the back of the cluster.

    You can also pull the whole dash with instruments still attached. Disconnect each wire under the hood and elsewhere and label them. I think this is actually more work, as re-assembly will be a challenge.
    Skip Lackie


    • #3
      I would lean to removing the entire dash on any of the "molded covers" from '63-66. It's also probably time to replace the entire harness as well and bench pre-assembly is much easier than trying to do the same with the dash in place.

      In fact, I've always removed the dash for any harness installation and am glad that I did...


      • #4
        Ditto what GrumpyOne said, I would never disconnect the wires from the dash, always from the Engine end and remove the whole works, then you have good, easy access to repair/restore everything.

        Be sure to insulate the area on the steel lower dash brace under the Ignition switch with a piece of Fuel Hose etc. where the always HOT "Battery" Terminal with un-fused power from the Solenoid will hit if the Original Type Ign. Sw. Bezel breaks, as they often do.
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner


        • #5
          Thanks guys, removing the seat sounds like a good idea (got a sore neck just inspecting it)


          • #6
            Im restoring a 66 cruiser just put the dash in. 4 nuts by windshield underneath, bolts outboard lh and rh under dash by door post, hood cable vents etc. . Get it loose lift upwards by the windshield so the studs clear the holes and pull it back a few inches. Will make the wiring easier to deal with.


            • #7
              Ah thanks mate, i had a crack on the weekend and had a great time trying to loosen those top bolts by the windshield that kept spinning on me