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Gas line routing suggestions for re-do of '57 Golden Hawk?

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  • Fuel System: Gas line routing suggestions for re-do of '57 Golden Hawk?

    Hi all,
    getting ready to make all my new fuel lines for '57 Golden Hawk (IF I can ever get my newly installed brake system to stop weeping AT THE PRESSURE RESTRICTORS! Oooy; all my novice flairs are sealed (finally), but can't get those restrictors in new dual M/C to stop weeping, going to break them yet tightening. Maybe tomorrow... Using DOT5, which probably doesn't help, but HAVE to make it stop!)

    Anyway, my Hawk had the 3/8" fuel line running UNDER the frame along the engine, until it flares out and over the batwing. Mine was flattened in spots, have heard others comment on THEIR gas lines having flat spots, and wondering if that area is also where modern shop 'car hoists' get located? Or if I'm safe to run the 3/8" fuel line with the original path (and use original fasteners, holes and bolts).

    Also, I'm changing it up a bit at the tank, running the 3/8" supply line from the later style gas tank, FROM THE lower left outlet (had to get a new tank anyway so had ReNu replace the 5/16" fitting with a 3/8") and using a 56J fuel sender, with it's fuel supply fitting adapted to being my 1/4" RETURN line connection. So QUESTION: I assume those later tanks still had the fuel line running up and over the rear crossmember by the leaf springs, and down around BACK of muffler to the gas tank, like it did originally to the fuel sender location? Still seems the best path to avoid the muffler, and shocks, vs going UNDER the crossmember. But wondering what the factory setup was for those later (58? 59?) gas tanks?

    Thanks!
    OH, does anyone know where I can get the fuel line clips, like the ones that mount to frame for the 3/8" (or other car's 5/16" fuel lines), or water manifold mounted clip on the engine block for the 5/16" line? I'd like to get an extra set to use on my return line... (also the little ones for the Supercharger to throttle switch wire?) Has to be similar clips available for general use, even if the Stude ones are all long gone....? No, I've not checked SI, NAPA or anywhere yet, just thought of it now...
    Barry

  • #2
    I had similar problems in my GH
    The fuel line was crushed in 2 places
    I just ordered a tank from Studebakers West made by Steven allen.. It is the later tank with pick up at lower left corner 3/8 line
    I have a manual pump and an electric pump.. I am having quite a few problems with vapor lock and can only seem to run with my electric pump
    'I am struggling to sort out fuel issues.. I would conk out every time I went up a hill so I am assuming its a pick up tube issue in the older tank

    Also with todays fuels and the supercharger which blows in Hot compressed air, we are more prone to vapor lock
    If you want to ride with the Big Dog
    ....keep your pedal to the metal, your nose in the air and paws on the wheel

    sigpic

    Remember> it's, not about the destination, its about the journey!
    Life's a journey, enjoy the ride
    Keith Wahl , MD 858-518-2190 (C)

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    • #3
      Hi Barry- If you can't readily obtain original line 'clips' , just get some appropriate sheetmetal scraps and you can replicate 'em really easily. BTW if you are needing a photo of the routing of the line, I have my frame "bare" and can easily shoot the whole length of you need to see it.
      Steve

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      • #4
        Thanks guys. Keith, sorry to hear about your vapor-lock issues; ALWAYS struggled with this with our '53 Buick V8; dad still has clothespins clamped along the line going into the carb, (and if they were METAL instead of wood, might actually help dissipate the heat). That is why I got the later Stude sediment buib with the small return 'vent' to make a return line to the tank. Should help some at least.'

        Good idea Steve, but fortunately I just got a set of 5/16" clips from my trusty source for NOS parts; he didn't think he had them. I think they are short enough I can double up and use same holes as the 3/8" supply line and run the lines parallel all the way along the frame; we'll see. Can always drill new holes, but nice not to HAVE to! :-) Especially drilling UP laying on the floor (necessary I think).

        So I take it BOTH of you have the original routing for the 3/8" fuel line, UNDER the frame up there by the transmission and block? I guess I'm going to stick with that too. And hope anytime I have to take it to a shop (or my kids do!?), they will watch where they place their lift-pads. I have my entire original fuel line intact AND took photos all along it before taking it apart some years ago. The only "change" is that now I'm going DOWN to the bottom of the gas tank, instead of the to the fuel-sender with the supply line. (and my 'return line' will go to the fuel sender; mine was shot, but got a 56J rebuilt unit which is 5/16", or I would have used the original routing to sender). Figured 'why restrict flow?" right at the tank, if I needed a new fitting in the tank anyway and could have them put in a 3/8" fitting... The more I look at it, the more it looks like I'll still need to follow almost the same routing for BOTH lines, and they'll diverge just before the tank; one to sender, one to bottom of tank on left side. Key is staying away from that tail pipe! Especially since i have no idea where exactly that will end up having to be once the body is on and I have to try and get level exhaust pipes at the bumper.

        However Steve, if you could shoot a photo of your line, particularly at the rear cross-member to the tank, that would be helpful. Mine was cut off (rusted away?) just after the cross-member curve, and a rubber hose ran to the sender, so I never saw how or where it ran back there originally. My email is BSROSELL@MMM.COM
        Thanks again for the replies!

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        • #5
          Click image for larger version

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ID:	1728935Hi again; one more question: I know the gas line ran over the “bat wing” and BECAUSE of the body shims had just enough clearance to not get squished by the body brace... But any reason not to avoid that by simply running the line Underneath the bat-wing?? Not only one less chance of damaging ( during body installation and reshimming) but works nicer with my new Turner Mastercylinder, with all those brake lines running out of it .
          ( original line shown; just eyeballing before deciding on new line bends)
          Thanks
          Last edited by bsrosell; 07-27-2019, 01:30 PM.

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          • #6
            Hi Barry- I have taken some video of my routing on a 1961 Hawk using the original factory fuel line- I will send it to your personal E mail addy as yoiu asked..
            Steve

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