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Air shocks supplier or part number - 64 Daytona hardtop

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  • Shocks: Air shocks supplier or part number - 64 Daytona hardtop

    looking for air shocks supplier or part# for 64 daytona hardtop. anyone know interchange numbers?
    61 lark cruiser
    64 daytona 2dr hardtop

  • #2
    Originally posted by studerodder View Post
    looking for air shocks supplier or part# for 64 daytona hardtop. anyone know interchange numbers?
    I'll ask why you want them. Is it to correct for worn out rear springs? I do not believe in putting much load on the shock mounts. With that said, I did install Studebaker factory accessory air shocks on my 1963 Daytona Wagonaire with good results.
    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    SDC member since 1968
    Studebaker enthusiast much longer

    Comment


    • #3
      I also used air shocks with great success for years, back in the day. I had M50-15s on the back of my Coupe. It was jacked up to the sky so the tires would stick outside the fenders. I know the cross member for the shock mounts is not supposed to carry that much weight, but mine never gave me any trouble.
      I chuckle at the thought of what it must have looked like to passers by.
      Imagining: "Why do these crazy kids ruin thier cars like that, Martha?" "Don't they know it's bad for the suspension?" etc.
      I thought it was Kooool.
      sals54

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      • #4
        As said above, Butch, it's not a good idea to use air-adjustable shock absorbers to compensate for worn springs. Buy new springs or have yours re-arched if the car sits too low in the back, unloaded.

        That said, and to answer your question, Monroe Air-Adjustable Shock Absorbers #MA708 fit the rear of 1970-1981 Camaros and Firebirds and are said to also fit 1963-1966 Studebakers.

        I'm not sure if the upper mount through sleeve is exactly the right length for the Studebaker application, so it may be necessary to push out the old sleeve from the Studebaker shocks you remove and press it in the upper mounts of the new shocks. Or, if the sleeve in the Camaro/Firebird application is too short, just use an equal number of large flat washers on either side of it to fill the gap between the Studebaker mount position and the ends of the Camaro/Firebird sleeves. BP
        We've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be?" Too many people are taking it as a challenge.

        Ayn Rand:
        "You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality."

        G. K. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it.

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        • #5
          I got a set of air shocks for my '65 Daytona from Kanter.I think it would be the same part number.

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          • #6
            Air shocks

            Originally posted by BobPalma View Post
            As said above, Butch, it's not a good idea to use air-adjustable shock absorbers to compensate for worn springs. Buy new springs or have yours re-arched if the car sits too low in the back, unloaded.

            That said, and to answer your question, Monroe Air-Adjustable Shock Absorbers #MA708 fit the rear of 1970-1981 Camaros and Firebirds and are said to also fit 1963-1966 Studebakers.

            I'm not sure if the upper mount through sleeve is exactly the right length for the Studebaker application, so it may be necessary to push out the old sleeve from the Studebaker shocks you remove and press it in the upper mounts of the new shocks. Or, if the sleeve in the Camaro/Firebird application is too short, just use an equal number of large flat washers on either side of it to fill the gap between the Studebaker mount position and the ends of the Camaro/Firebird sleeves. BP
            This is not a ride height issue. After moving to Arizona, I am finally back on the car and have completed the 500 mile break in of the modified 303 C.I. Studebaker engine we built. Just before leaving Illinois, we swapped the 3.07 Dana 27 for a 3.31 Dana 44 TT and large tube R1 driveshaft. I have now tuned the engine for power, and if you floor it from a standstill, the rear end hits the floor like a sledgehammer while pointing the nose to the sky. Just looking to slow up the weight transfer. Thanks for the part #, Bob. That’s the one I was thinking of. They have a crossbar top mount, but I will modify them to fit.
            61 lark cruiser
            64 daytona 2dr hardtop

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by studerodder View Post
              This is not a ride height issue. After moving to Arizona, I am finally back on the car and have completed the 500 mile break in of the modified 303 C.I. Studebaker engine we built. Just before leaving Illinois, we swapped the 3.07 Dana 27 for a 3.31 Dana 44 TT and large tube R1 driveshaft. I have now tuned the engine for power, and if you floor it from a standstill, the rear end hits the floor like a sledgehammer while pointing the nose to the sky. Just looking to slow up the weight transfer. Thanks for the part #, Bob. That’s the one I was thinking of. They have a crossbar top mount, but I will modify them to fit.
              To me, it sounds like you need something like traction bars to limit axle wrap-up, rather than air shocks to limit vertical motion.
              Gary L.
              Wappinger, NY

              SDC member since 1968
              Studebaker enthusiast much longer

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by studegary View Post
                To me, it sounds like you need something like traction bars to limit axle wrap-up, rather than air shocks to limit vertical motion.
                Yes, I’m putting slapper bars on it too. I have 225/70R15 tires on torque-thrusts on the back. The car is automatic transmission equipped. The combination of big tire, low stall speed, and R2+ cam with the TT means it doesn’t spin the tires. I’m thinking Air shocks at a low pressure will slow the weight transfer, allowing the tires to spin a little which will allow the engine to get into the camshaft’s power range, thus allowing all hell to Break loose. And yes Gary, you are correct about spring wrap up. If I keep the skinny pedal down you can feel driveline shudder due torque misalignment. Remember, I’m still sorting this thing out. It will be a beast if I don’t break it first.
                61 lark cruiser
                64 daytona 2dr hardtop

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by studerodder View Post
                  Yes, I’m putting slapper bars on it too. I have 225/70R15 tires on torque-thrusts on the back. The car is automatic transmission equipped. The combination of big tire, low stall speed, and R2+ cam with the TT means it doesn’t spin the tires. I’m thinking Air shocks at a low pressure will slow the weight transfer, allowing the tires to spin a little which will allow the engine to get into the camshaft’s power range, thus allowing all hell to Break loose. And yes Gary, you are correct about spring wrap up. If I keep the skinny pedal down you can feel driveline shudder due torque misalignment. Remember, I’m still sorting this thing out. It will be a beast if I don’t break it first.
                  Watch the videos of the Pure Stock Drags. You'll see all the Studebakers with the factory traction bars lift the rear end when they leave the line. This puts more pressure on the pavement giving better traction. It sounds like you want your tires to spin. If that's the case, don't go with factory traction bars. BTW, I wouldn't put slapper bars on a go cart. Unless it was a '70's nostalgia thing.
                  Jerry Forrester
                  Forrester's Chrome
                  Douglasville, Georgia

                  See all of Buttercup's pictures at https://imgur.com/a/tBjGzTk

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                  • #10
                    I looked up shock specs and used Monroe MA820 on a 60 lark conv just to level the car 20 to 30 lbs worked great.

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