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Best way to re-crimp bullet end to speedometer cable?

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  • Speedo/Tach/Gauges: Best way to re-crimp bullet end to speedometer cable?

    Hi, previous owner compressed end of cable in pulling it from transmission ( apparently) and pinion gear was jammed ( speedo disconnected, I found new pinion fortunately). Tried to gently push the “dents” back out to allow free rotation, and tapered drift caught edge of cable housing and it just fell right out. No damage, just need to re-crimp or tack weld or? Suggestions?

    And as long as putting it back together, any suggestion for sealant to put around it first and preventing some leakage of tranny fluid?
    Thanks!
    Click image for larger version

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  • #2
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	1728694There are crimping tool available at tool stores.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by bsrosell View Post
      Hi, previous owner compressed end of cable in pulling it from transmission ( apparently) and pinion gear was jammed ( speedo disconnected, I found new pinion fortunately). Tried to gently push the “dents” back out to allow free rotation, and tapered drift caught edge of cable housing and it just fell right out. No damage, just need to re-crimp or tack weld or? Suggestions?

      And as long as putting it back together, any suggestion for sealant to put around it first and preventing some leakage of tranny fluid?
      Thanks!
      [ATTACH=CONFIG]82309[/ATTACH]
      Well...when I first read your title, I thought..."Piece of cake! Easy!" However, I've replaced/repaired cables more often than I can recall. Except, you are having to secure the "cable housing" at the transmission. That is unusual (in my experience) to find a problem at that end. My problems have mainly been the cable itself, either seizing or breaking between the speedometer & transmission. For those problems, universal cables are available and come with a square end piece (bullet?) to be crimped onto your speedometer end once you have cut it to correct length. These kits have a very simple crimp tool included. I copied this pic from eBay, so if it does not past here...I'll try to include a link to the eBay ad.

      https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-S...ss!29651!US!-1



      Anyway, the tool that Altair shows in post#2 might be a great solution. If you use it, keep in mind it is a "compound leverage design," and you will need to be very careful to not over crimp the housing creating a friction/pinch area that could cause your cable to bind and fail.

      Amazing, how some of the simplest little chores on these vehicles can expand into some pretty aggravating and annoying problems.
      John Clary
      Greer, SC

      SDC member since 1975

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      • #4
        Have you thought about cleaning the cable good and then with the inner cable out put a small amount of metal adhesive or JB weld on the outer cable
        and after it has set up run a rod of some type though just far enough to be sure the inside is clean. Then reinstall the inner cable.

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        • #5
          Will the cable jacket slip into the crimp area to it full depth? If so, just slip a couple of pieces of suitable size heat-shrink tubing over the cable, slip it into the bullet, and shrink on the two layers of heat-shrink.If the cable won't slip into the sleeve, first heat the sleeve red hot with a torch, and allow it to cool slowly. That will anneal the metal so it's workable. Find the shank of a drill bit that will just fit into the sleeve, and slip it in there. lay the sleeve flat on an anvil, and tap it with a hammer to work out the crimp, rolling it on the anvil to hammer all sides equally. Switch up to a larger drill shank, if you can. You should soon get it expanded to the point that the cable will slip in easily. Now, you can re-crimp it with the crimping tool shown above, or else use the heat shrink method.I just did this anneal/hammer on mandrel thing a day or two ago to repair a hydraulic hard line on my tractor, and it worked perfectly.
          Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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          • #6
            Originally posted by swvalcon View Post
            Have you thought about cleaning the cable good and then with the inner cable out put a small amount of metal adhesive or JB weld on the outer cable
            and after it has set up run a rod of some type though just far enough to be sure the inside is clean. Then reinstall the inner cable.
            My thought exactly! JB Weld, it works great if you get stuff clean, and is oil and fuel resistant.
            sigpic

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            • #7
              Thanks guys!!! Was just puzzling on this today, didn't see all these replies since I last checked. Good suggestions, all!
              I was considering today maybe cutting a nut the right size in half, and using the two halves in a vice as a crimping tool....
              Controlled depth and complete circumference (almost) so SHOULD avoid over-compressing the ID... But now will have to consider the above ideas, or use in conjunction (and need that much less MECHANICAL crimping...)
              As always, you guys are the best, thanks again!
              Barry
              PS: darn right, the last week of vacation has shown very little visible progress due to "shouldn't have been problems problems' but like a hot-rod show's line goes, "no such thing as problems, only projects!" :-)

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