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  • cochranjd
    replied
    Got it! Just needed to work over the exposed threads on top with some degreaser and then slowly work it through and it came out. Fantastic!

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  • cochranjd
    replied
    Originally posted by bensherb View Post
    Obviously not a '63/'64 Hawk Rich, no heater assembly on the right fender and firewall.

    That latch pin is exactly what is in my '62. Removing it is easy, just remove the nut on top, and turn it out. I can't remember if its threaded in the thin plate it bolts through or not.
    Thanks!

    Here is the difficulty I'm running into -

    The assembly, ignoring the spring, seems to be the long threaded bolt/plunger, which threads through the nut at the top, then goes through the metal plate.

    What I'm finding is that I can hold the nut and loosen the bolt quite a bit, but when I get to the last inch or so of the thread, it just stops. I can't see anything on the threading that would cause this, but whatever the case, it just refuses to keep going. I've even tried with my drill (using a flat bit in the gap on the plunger) and can't push through, so it feels purposeful. So at that point, I can no longer spin the bolt while keeping the nut locked.

    This means I can spin the nut/screw as a single piece, but it doesn't seem to thread through the metal cause doing this doesn't seem to move anything relative to the plate. It seems like the nut is somehow attached to the metal plate, but the plate itself doesn't seem to have any threads (otherwise, I'd expect the bolt to push itself out as I spin it, but it just spins freely if the bolt is spinning with it)

    Trying to figure out if there is something I'm not accounting for, or if I possibly have something I need to clean up that is preventing that from threading completely out of the nut.

    Any thoughts?

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  • 1954khardtop
    replied
    My late friend Bob Layman used a push button lap seat belt buckle. He cut a lap belt down and bolted one end to the hood and one to the latch support. It would allow the hood to raise just high enough to release it.

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  • Bryan G
    replied
    One real quick tip: make sure the latch is well lubed. That applies to vehicles of any age. I've seen plenty of hoods that wouldn't open because the latch was dry, and a few that wouldn't properly latch because of it.

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  • bensherb
    replied
    Obviously not a '63/'64 Hawk Rich, no heater assembly on the right fender and firewall.

    That latch pin is exactly what is in my '62. Removing it is easy, just remove the nut on top, and turn it out. I can't remember if its threaded in the thin plate it bolts through or not.

    Leave a comment:


  • cochranjd
    replied
    It’s actually a 61 hawk. I’m sure there are a handful of modifications. I'm at least the 3rd known owner after my father in law (who is also on this board) and the person he bought it from.
    Last edited by cochranjd; 10-11-2020, 06:14 PM.

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    There is SOMETHING about that Dovetail Pin and Spring that does not look Correct/Stock to me.
    Maybe someone else knows WHAT it is.

    The Coils do not look uniform over the length of the Spring and there is something inside at the bottom.

    Is that a '63 or '64 GT Hawk?
    Several things in that Engine Compartment look modified also.
    Last edited by StudeRich; 10-11-2020, 12:53 PM.

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  • cochranjd
    replied
    Hey all - new to all of this, so forgive me if this is a silly question, but how do I go about removing the plunger? Do I just need to loosen the bold that rests above the spring? I spent what felt like an eternity slowly turning that thing and I think it was making progress - but eventually it stopped spinning and I didn't want to cause any damage by forcing anything, so I stopped and spend another eternity re-tightening. Here's a pic of the assembly - I've marked where I plan to put a pin, so now I just need to get the thing out and the hole drilled!

    Thanks all.


    Click image for larger version

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  • bensherb
    replied
    The hitch pin I used is about .160" the hole about ,170" . I attached a cable to the pin and bolted the other end to the underside of the latch assembly. Click image for larger version

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    Click image for larger version

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  • jrlemke
    replied
    I used a short 1/4" chain on my Hawk. 1/8" or 3/16" pin should be ok, you don't want to weaken your latch pin too much.- -Jim

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  • dad had a lark
    replied
    What diameter clevis pin should be used?

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  • bensherb
    replied
    A small drill press should be ok. Being that you'll be drilling into an angled surface, you'll want to start by having the surface flat and drilling a divot that the drill bit will stay in when you tip the part back to the angle to drill through. Another approach would be to use a "Center Drill" to start the hole, they're stout enough that you can drill into the angled face without it deviating. You can't drill through with a center drill, only use it to start, then swap to a standard bit to go through.

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  • cochranjd
    replied
    Hey all - I'm going to buy my first Studebaker soon - a 1961 Hawk - and actually have an extra plunger and was planning to drill a hole through it to allow me to use a snap ring/lynch pin to secure the hood when closed. My question is, will a small benchtop drillpress be enough to put a hole in the plunger, or am I better off saving my money and finding a local shop to do it. I'll find other uses to make a small drillpress worth having, but can't justify buying a full standing more powerful model at this time.

    I've included a picture of the plunger if that helps.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jeffry Cassel
    replied
    The problem is the secondary latch is only spot welded to the latch plate and a good yank can sometmes pop it right off the plate. I have taken the plate off and added weld to it with MIG welder. If you don't have one someone could do it for you for $5. Takes < 5 min. Joe Hall puts a bolt in it; that'd work and might be less messy than my welding. And be sure it is adjusted so that the safety catch catches.

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  • kurtruk
    replied
    Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
    For a long time, I have said this forum needs a, "LIKE" button, as FaceBook does. I definitely woulda 'liked' all these great ideas here.
    At the top of the Thread is a gray bar. On the right side is an option to "Rate this Thread." Click on it.

    Leave a comment:

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