Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Hood latch security

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    It’s actually a 61 hawk. I’m sure there are a handful of modifications. I'm at least the 3rd known owner after my father in law (who is also on this board) and the person he bought it from.
    Last edited by cochranjd; 10-11-2020, 06:14 PM.

    Comment


    • #32
      Obviously not a '63/'64 Hawk Rich, no heater assembly on the right fender and firewall.

      That latch pin is exactly what is in my '62. Removing it is easy, just remove the nut on top, and turn it out. I can't remember if its threaded in the thin plate it bolts through or not.

      Comment


      • #33
        One real quick tip: make sure the latch is well lubed. That applies to vehicles of any age. I've seen plenty of hoods that wouldn't open because the latch was dry, and a few that wouldn't properly latch because of it.

        Comment


        • #34
          My late friend Bob Layman used a push button lap seat belt buckle. He cut a lap belt down and bolted one end to the hood and one to the latch support. It would allow the hood to raise just high enough to release it.
          Dwight 54 Commander hardtop

          Comment


          • #35
            Originally posted by bensherb View Post
            Obviously not a '63/'64 Hawk Rich, no heater assembly on the right fender and firewall.

            That latch pin is exactly what is in my '62. Removing it is easy, just remove the nut on top, and turn it out. I can't remember if its threaded in the thin plate it bolts through or not.
            Thanks!

            Here is the difficulty I'm running into -

            The assembly, ignoring the spring, seems to be the long threaded bolt/plunger, which threads through the nut at the top, then goes through the metal plate.

            What I'm finding is that I can hold the nut and loosen the bolt quite a bit, but when I get to the last inch or so of the thread, it just stops. I can't see anything on the threading that would cause this, but whatever the case, it just refuses to keep going. I've even tried with my drill (using a flat bit in the gap on the plunger) and can't push through, so it feels purposeful. So at that point, I can no longer spin the bolt while keeping the nut locked.

            This means I can spin the nut/screw as a single piece, but it doesn't seem to thread through the metal cause doing this doesn't seem to move anything relative to the plate. It seems like the nut is somehow attached to the metal plate, but the plate itself doesn't seem to have any threads (otherwise, I'd expect the bolt to push itself out as I spin it, but it just spins freely if the bolt is spinning with it)

            Trying to figure out if there is something I'm not accounting for, or if I possibly have something I need to clean up that is preventing that from threading completely out of the nut.

            Any thoughts?

            Comment


            • #36
              Got it! Just needed to work over the exposed threads on top with some degreaser and then slowly work it through and it came out. Fantastic!

              Comment

              Working...
              X