Like so many other tools, unless you're an old car restorer, you don't need it very often but, when you do, nothing else will suffice.
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this hub puller, yes or no
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"All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory
Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
'33 Rockne 10,
'51 Commander Starlight,
'53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
'56 Sky Hawk
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This subject comes up from time to time, and especially from folks unfamiliar with tapered axles and/or new to the hobby, but some subjects are worth being covered well and repeated. If you purchase a quality three legged tool as pictured... properly placed, it can pull a four or five lug wheel without damage. If the wheel is not stuck too bad, on a four lug wheel, you can remove one leg and pull it with two. The key to pulling any wheel is to do your best to position the legs as evenly as possible before beginning the pulling process. My method is to snug up the legs on the lugs finger tight and as even as possible. In post #10 above, SScopelli shows an excellent picture where the puller is perfectly positioned on a center-line to the axle which makes the best position for pulling.
In addition to turning the axle nut over and putting it back on to protect the axle end, I insert a 1/4" thick steel wafer for added protection to the axle. For the pulling action, I use the "ears" on that lead screw wrench and snug it up. Then use a hammer to tighten the lead screw to produce substantial torque, and then rap the center with the hammer. Alternate rapping the "ears" and the lead screw. Both of these surfaces are made for impact, but I never wail away with the hammer. As tough as these tools are, the impact areas can be mushroomed, and your wheels can become warped or distorted. Even an axle with the nut in place for protection can be damaged if you lose your cool and ape hammer away. I have left a puller on under pressure overnight to come back the next day and find the wheel popped loose. It's not nearly as difficult as we can make it sound, but many of us grew up around these things to where it was a pretty routine chore and it's easy to assume others see it that way.John Clary
Greer, SC
SDC member since 1975
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All excellent points, John Clary."All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory
Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
'33 Rockne 10,
'51 Commander Starlight,
'53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
'56 Sky Hawk
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Originally posted by thom View Post52hawk, It looks like the one I was bidding on has went past my limit. But if tim333 wants to buy yours that's fine, I can find another, I'm sure.John Clary
Greer, SC
SDC member since 1975
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Here's one for a reasonable price on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/TruePower-20-2029-Universal-Hub-Puller/dp/B012P0QV5K/ref=sr_1_4?crid=18ZG52EYVMRIR&keywords=hub+puller+tool&qid=1560118507&s=gateway& sprefix=hub+puller%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-4
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That is one of the new Chinese knock offs. I think he was looking for a USA made vintage tool.
The one on ebay went for $46.65. Good price. Looks like it is missing the striking wrench. Although, if you have an impact gun, that works well too.
Most of ones you see in the $50 range are Chinese knock offs. Have no idea of the quality. JUST because it is made in China, doesn't mean it CAN'T be good quality. However, pretty hit and miss.
Most of the vintage USA models like this one (New Britain, Bonney, Mac, etc.) are priced considerably higher. Some over $200.
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Originally posted by thom View Post52hawk, It looks like the one I was bidding on has went past my limit. But if tim333 wants to buy yours that's fine, I can find another, I'm sure.
Others have already mentioned the risk of buying a Chinese knock-off!Oglesby,Il.
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