Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

What Options Exist as to Vacuum Advance replacements/repairs?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Jeffry Cassel
    replied
    I wondered how too. Had clocks rebuilt and they come back looking like no-one ever pried them open. Figured they either have a gadget or are just way better than me.

    Leave a comment:


  • GrumpyOne
    replied
    Originally posted by RadioRoy View Post
    No overheating or pinging on the highway? I should think running without the vacuum advance would be problematic. I wonder if you replace it, if the car will feel like it has more horsepower. It should.

    That was about as poorly worded a sentence as I have written in a long time.
    All I do is block the vacuum line, set the distributor timing to where it idles best and just press on. That way, it never over advances but you do sacrifice some "demand" performance at speed...

    Leave a comment:


  • altair
    replied
    With out a spark modifier would not ping or over heat as the centrifugal advance is actuated by then. Many cars had no spark modifier for years and they worked just fine. It just helps at the lower speeds to slowly advance the spark until the centrifugal advance comes in. It helps for ease of starting as you can retard the spark some then when started the spark will advance some. My 259 is on 6 volts and it starts easily with about 2-3 degrees retarded then when started it will advance to TDC or slightly more. With out the modifier I would have to start with 2-3 degrees advance which is considerably more load on the starter. With 12 volts it probably much lesser of an issue. With the setup I have it starts within one revolution.

    Leave a comment:


  • 52-fan
    replied
    I was wondering the same thing.

    Leave a comment:


  • dpson
    replied
    Just curious, how are these rebuilt? The metal "can" with diaphragm appears to be factory crimped all the way around and would seem to be very difficult to open (un-crimp) without major damage to the unit.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jeffry Cassel
    replied
    Terrell Machine in Deleon, TX can rebuild them. They are reasonable and fairly quick. I've had several fuel pumps rebuilt by them and have been happy with the results

    Leave a comment:


  • wdills
    replied
    Since this item is all about the diaphragm, I would not consider an NOS unit to be superior. That NOS diaphragm has been sitting on a shelf drying our for 50 or 60 years.

    Leave a comment:


  • 52-fan
    replied
    Performance wise it did not seem to matter on my car. It might effect mileage, but I don't drive many long trips so I haven't compared.

    Leave a comment:


  • RadioRoy
    replied
    Originally posted by GrumpyOne View Post
    Heh! I've been doing just that for the past ten years... I'm just trying to get the car to original shape since it's a numbers matching survivor.
    No overheating or pinging on the highway? I should think running without the vacuum advance would be problematic. I wonder if you replace it, if the car will feel like it has more horsepower. It should.

    That was about as poorly worded a sentence as I have written in a long time.

    Leave a comment:


  • GrumpyOne
    replied
    Originally posted by SScopelli View Post
    Honestly,

    Unless you have a new 2019 manufactured vacuum advance you will be buying a NOS 50 year old part for $100, and it will probably last 1 year more under the hood..

    OR, Add $100 to that and get this..

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/352381135403

    The person buying the car will see the value in it. (i.e. Never have to adjust points again, and replacement parts readily available.)

    Below is a post I had for setting up the distributor.

    Click on the ">>" to see the whole post.
    Since the car is an original survivor that option is out. I would rather let the new owner make such a decision but thanks anyway...

    Leave a comment:


  • GrumpyOne
    replied
    Originally posted by wdills View Post
    Dave T-Bow has remanufactured ones. Stephen Allen has NOS units. I would go with a T-Bow reman if he has one for your car.
    I'm currently doing some business with Dave and will run a rebuilt one or may spring for a NOS unit...

    Leave a comment:


  • GrumpyOne
    replied
    Originally posted by 52-fan View Post
    Or just plug it and drive on. The diaphragm in my 52's distributor was blown when I got it and I just blocked it and drove the car for quite some time before replacing the whole distributor. If you are selling the car, why put the money in it?
    Heh! I've been doing just that for the past ten years... I'm just trying to get the car to original shape since it's a numbers matching survivor.

    Leave a comment:


  • wdills
    replied
    Dave T-Bow has remanufactured ones. Stephen Allen has NOS units. I would go with a T-Bow reman if he has one for your car.

    Leave a comment:


  • 52-fan
    replied
    Or just plug it and drive on. The diaphragm in my 52's distributor was blown when I got it and I just blocked it and drove the car for quite some time before replacing the whole distributor. If you are selling the car, why put the money in it?

    Leave a comment:


  • SScopelli
    replied
    Honestly,

    Unless you have a new 2019 manufactured vacuum advance you will be buying a NOS 50 year old part for $100, and it will probably last 1 year more under the hood..

    OR, Add $100 to that and get this..

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/352381135403

    The person buying the car will see the value in it. (i.e. Never have to adjust points again, and replacement parts readily available.)

    Below is a post I had for setting up the distributor.

    Click on the ">>" to see the whole post.

    Originally posted by SScopelli View Post
    This is the CRT version, which seems to work well.

    It will come with some tuning parts..


    When shipped, they have the black springs and the silver donut installed, so it will be the top curve, 16 deg at 2000 rpm.

    On a "JT" build, the JT mechanical advance is limited to 10/11 deg.

    I used the gold (light) springs and used the black donut to limit the mechanical advance to 12.5 deg at 1500 RPM.

    I also adjusted the internal stop in the vacuum advance for a total of 28 deg of advance, mechanical and vacuum at 3000 RPM and 17" of Hg.
    (12.5 mechanical - 15.5 vacuum)

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X