I have a 53 Willy’s with a Studebaker 170 cu in flathead six. Wireless harnessing is for which?
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I'm not exactly sure what your question actually is, but as to the engine there is very little wireing involved. You should only need power from the ignition switch to the coil, and to the starter solenoid; a cable from the solenoid to the starter, and a wire from the water temp gauge to the sender. Alternator/generator depends on what you actually have. I usually use a 1975ish GM alternator they're super easy.sigpic
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I had a studebaker champion engine in a 1950 Jeep pickup. It worked pretty well power wise but the low geared differentials that are stock in the old jeeps really wound the old champion engine pretty tight and finally cost me a thrown rod. They work if you don't try to maintain highway speeds. I would definitely wire in a tach if you can to monitor for over revving.
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Those little sixes seem to be everywhere. I have a friend who has one in his MG TD.Howard - Los Angeles chapter SDC
'53 Commander Starliner (Finally running and driving, but still in process)
'56 Golden Hawk (3 speed/overdrive, Power steering - Running, but not yet driving)
'62 GT Hawk (4 speed, A/C, Power steering - running and DRIVING!)
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If the Willys is four wheel drive, there is an overdrive that bolts in where the power take off would go. Makes a big difference in driveability.
Thanks for fixing the title of this thread.Last edited by RadioRoy; 04-30-2019, 03:53 PM.RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.
17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible
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