Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Heater Hose hook-up ?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Topper2011
    replied
    This is a timely post as I am getting ready to install my hoses on the Hawk. I especially like the illustration. Now, trying to find spring clamps that actually work with today's thinner hoses. Trying to avoid worm gear ones, but may not have a choice.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	P4280393.jpg
Views:	2
Size:	82.0 KB
ID:	1727897

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    That's true Brad, but they are not "Completely" inside like a '62-'66 Lark or Lark Type, which is why I used that word.

    Leave a comment:


  • rockne10
    replied
    Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
    The '53 to '62 C & K Models that have a Ranco automatic Valve, have the Valve on the Firewall with the In and Out Tubes side by side.
    The valve itself is still inside the cabin. It's just the inlet and outlet that project through the firewall.

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    Originally posted by brngarage View Post
    Thanks all for this educational discussion. This will help me with the disconnected heater valves on all 3 of my Studebakers!
    Well Howard, I hope it helped some, but just remember this was for '62 to '66 Lark types with the Valve completely INSIDE the Car and only ONE Heat Core, quite a bit different than your Cars.

    The '53 to '62 C & K Models that have a Ranco automatic Valve, have the Valve on the Firewall with the In and Out Tubes side by side.

    Leave a comment:


  • rockne10
    replied
    Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
    I have had those "Thumbnails" pop up sometimes, probably because I deleted a Pic, but I found if you go to "Go Advanced" and "Manage Attachments" you CAN delete those Rascals.
    WOW!
    Thanks for that tutorial, Rich. You are absolutely correct. It happens when try to delete one and replace it with another. I've had it happen a number of times and always just ended up throwing up my hands and moving on. I did as you said and the errant rascal is now gone. Thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • brngarage
    replied
    Thanks all for this educational discussion. This will help me with the disconnected heater valves on all 3 of my Studebakers!

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    Note that Post #3 IS verifying that post #2 is the correct hookup.
    Thanks for the Good drawing Brad.

    I have had those "Thumbnails" pop up sometimes, probably because I deleted a Pic, but I found if you go to "Go Advanced" and "Manage Attachments" you CAN delete those Rascals.

    Leave a comment:


  • mch
    replied
    this is an interesting post because for the last year on my 64 Avanti R2 I kept hearing a gurgling sound when the heater was engaged event without the fans on. Then,in the last month I noted the gurgling sound continuously when the engine was on . One mechanic I previously used kept saying there was air in the system and if I flushed the engine, radiator I would get rid of that sound. WRONG. So, I ordered a new; rebuilt from Jon Myer, heater control valve and gone is the gurgling.
    BTW I tried to find the pliers for the spring valve on-line, both through ebay and another site. I ended up buying one from the Snapon dealer for less than what was found online.

    Leave a comment:


  • jackb
    replied
    I've hooked them up both ways, just make sure you open & close the valve frequently...

    Leave a comment:


  • Bob Beckert
    replied
    THANKS GUYS as THAT FIXES MY PROBLEM !!!!!!!! Bob

    Leave a comment:


  • rockne10
    replied
    Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
    ... what is probably stumping many is the other half of your question.
    I think you will find the hot water fed to the heater valve should always be fed to the valve tube with the bend in it, regardless of model. But don't quote me.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	007.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	86.7 KB
ID:	1727859
    Last edited by rockne10; 04-29-2019, 05:52 PM. Reason: Corrected flow direction arrow and deleted extraneous thumbnail per instruction by Rich Gahlbeck..

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    Sorry Bob that it took so long for someone to come up with the answer you need.

    Most of us do know that the Upper Water Manifold Heater fitting on V8's (on the right on non-A/C Cars and from the Left on Factory A/C Cars) is definitely the HOT Control Valve INPUT.

    However what is probably stumping many is the other half of your question.
    I could not remember which Control Valve tube is which, until I checked my '64 which should be the same as all '62 to '66 Larks and Lark Types.

    The "HOT" input should be the Lower Hose going through the Firewall and crossing to the upper water manifold fitting.
    Then going INSIDE the Car, that Lower hose connects to the lower Fitting on the Valve which does have a 90 degree Elbow as it comes out. the Valve mounts Diagonally under the dash on it's bracket.

    Then the Upper outlet (the straight one) from the Valve gets a 90 Degree very Short Hose to the Core Inlet. these are available at Parts stores in longer lengths to be cut down to fit.

    I hope this helps.
    Last edited by StudeRich; 04-28-2019, 04:20 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bob Beckert
    started a topic Cool/Heat: Heater Hose hook-up ?

    Heater Hose hook-up ?

    Does the heater hose FROM the water pump go to the core and the TOP hose from the manifold go to the heater valve bent tubing ? Its a 62 lark 259 v8
Working...
X