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  • #31
    Originally posted by TWChamp View Post
    Don't kid yourself about having lots of time when you're retired.
    Seems many of us don't have the time, or time and money at the same time, to get things done once we are retired.
    AGREED! I acomplished a LOT more on my projects when I was also working 10 hours a day. Of course, the internet wasn't around then to absorb my time.

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    • #32
      Dang, John. We aren't that far away from each other, both geographically or in life, though you may have a few years of advanced crap. I could use a road trip, but not in the Albatross. How about lunch sometime soon?


      Originally posted by jclary View Post
      They say humor only works well if there's an element of truth involved. For several years now, My running joke for retirement has been, "DON'T TELL ANYONE!" Especially if you retire with good enough health to have some fun doing what you want. My natural side is to be pretty self-centered, but my wife has (by example) shown me the way toward caring and compassion for others.

      My selfish side would have me spending most of my time playing with my toys. But, "LIFE" has a way of reminding us of our responsibilities. Besides my own health challenges, the past five years were spent doing my best to comfort and care for my aging mother as she lived to celebrate her 98th birthday. My wife has had to have multiple doctor visits in the past couple of weeks. Since 2:45 am this morning, I have been sitting up with an unconsolable poodle crying out in pain from arthritis. Somehow, during the time caring for the needs of "others"...I still have to work on my own insulin injections and medications.

      Even with this bleak depressing scene...today's hope is to move enough of the clutter from my building repair projects, fire up a Studebaker (or two), wash off the cat tracks & pollen, and enjoy a little Studebaker time.

      NOPE...retirement isn't all it's cracked up to be. (I think I need a nap)
      Ron Dame
      '63 Champ

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      • #33
        Originally posted by Ron Dame View Post
        Dang, John. We aren't that far away from each other, both geographically or in life, though you may have a few years of advanced crap. I could use a road trip, but not in the Albatross. How about lunch sometime soon?
        You're right Ron...private message sent.
        John Clary
        Greer, SC

        SDC member since 1975

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        • #34
          Follow up: My enriching the carb failed to fix the problem. Besides working a lot these days and wet weather, I finally got around to the truck today. The 1st thing I checked was the glass fuel bowl on the pump. At start up and for all of my test time, there was never any loss of fuel in the bowl. I assume if there was a fuel pump problem or blockage at the tank, I would see some loss of visible fuel in the bowl. I guess it would be possible the pump was not pulling the fuel from the bowl, but why the problem only when the engine is hot? Any comments to eliminate the pump, tank, fuel problem ?

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          • #35
            A vacuum/press gauge will test the pump. try running a small gas can in the bed plumbed to the pump inlet. Luck Doofus

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            • #36
              Hi HawkLover, the fine print on the card says "Tests standard, electronic or DIS KV systems". Note the controlled adjustable gap. That is one of the nicest features. Another is that the spark is asked to jump a gap with a nice dark background, for best visibiity. Even point ignition SYSTEMS in good shape should jump a gap 5X larger than the normal plug gap. A good sequence is to start with testing for spark at the coil wire, so the condition of the rotor, carp, and plug wires is "out of the picture."

              Table 1 here starts with a spark test, asks tough probing questions, and offers specific technically sound conclusions based on the answers to those questions.
              http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/m...p2/02-003.html

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              • #37
                might want to start another thread.......this ones all over the place...

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                • #38
                  You're right jack.

                  I did a kind of stupid thing to check mine when I was having this problem. I would squirt a little gas down the carb with a mustard bottle and it would start.
                  So next I popped the top off the carb, drilled a hole over the float bowl added a nipple cap and I could fill it.
                  It would run for a while.
                  Ergo ruled out the carb and electrical system.
                  Ended up I installed a boat tank in the bed for a while, before someone gave me a decent tank.
                  Good luck on yours.

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                  • #39
                    Well....I was thinking to test the same way......

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by jackb View Post
                      might want to start another thread.......this ones all over the place...
                      Hi Jack,

                      As you adjust the points are you checking the end timing with a timing light?

                      Opening or closing the points will affect the timing and dwell setting.

                      In a six-cylinder engine, the lobes are 60° apart and the dwell time is 30° to 35°.

                      A narrower gap gives more dwell and a wider gap gives less.

                      Too much dwell means that the points close too soon after opening, cutting off the magnetic field collapse before it delivers all its energy.

                      Too little dwell gives the magnetic flux insufficient time to build up to the maximum. (weak spark)

                      The time domain is interesting, as it runs fine when cold, but deteriorates over time. This doesn't sound like fuel issues, fuel issues would sound like runs fine at low speed but bad at high speeds, or vis-versa.

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                      • #41
                        Since I just replaced the points, I simply rotate the distributor until I get the best (fastest) rpm, then test drive for "pinging". If I get some ping, I (rotate) retard back until the ping goes away. I have no pinging at this time.

                        The truck runs great for about 25 minutes. Stop in idle and it slowly sputters to a stop. Restarts hard, but does start right away, but with poor idle, then die. * 30 minutes later it will start right up and drive for a while, maybe not 25 minutes, but will run fine for 10+ minutes, then the routine begins again. * I'm now thinking condenser or coil ? I've got 4-5 coils Autolite & Delco, but not for this application. A condenser is a quick buy locally or from a vendor with old US made stock.....

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                        • #42
                          How hot is the coil when it dies? It will be quite warm, but if you cant touch it for more than 5 or 10 seconds, it's likely your reason.
                          Ron Dame
                          '63 Champ

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                          • #43
                            On a used distributor, it is very diffcult to get accurate settings without a dwell meter, so I would check this first. Secondly, I would get the ohmeter and check that the moving point is properly isolated from the earth (cold and hot) when the points are opened. There might a short on the cable that goes to the coil. I would also check that there is no resistance between the points when they are closed. Sometimes, there is a protective coating on the points that needs to be removed.
                            Nice day to all.
                            sigpic

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                            • #44
                              I just realized....... Maybe the Mexican points are taking a Siesta! . Gonna have to wake em up!

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                              • #45
                                Ok - new update: truck died this AM after very short drive. Tried to drip a tablespoon/plus of gas into the carb and = no start. I have a couple condensers I can replace in the dist.....but how about the coil ? This is a Delco set up (late 50's GM parts), now 12V negative ground. I cannot see a ballast resistor or any 2nd wire (resistance) at the coil or solenoid. Were the coils for GM back then "internally resisted" ?? I had a 59' 6 cyl wagon that had a Delco system. It did not have a pink wire or a ballast resistor if I remmember corresctly. I might have that coil stashed away. Different coils ??

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