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Door latch repair: 2R, E-series, etc.

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  • #16
    Thanks, Skip...I too have a bunch of manuals and that cover looks awfully familiar. I might have one after all. That is unless they used the same picture for the shop manual...when I get a chance, (and motivation), I'll have to check. The manual I looked at the other day was the handiest at the time. At one time, I tried to keep them neatly organized. To me, they are treasures...at least one other person in my household kinda tolerated them.
    John Clary
    Greer, SC

    SDC member since 1975

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    • #17
      I have just ordered the parts catalog for my truck (E12-122). It won't be here for over a week. I appreciate the work Skip (and StudeRich) put in looking up parts for people. I have the parts catalog for my other two Studes, and have helped people here on the Forum look up parts for their cars as well.

      Now, back to the original subject. I still need that spring.
      KURTRUK
      (read it backwards)




      Nothing is politically right which is morally wrong. -A. Lincoln

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      • #18
        Call SI, don't check the catalog, they won't be shown there. The springs are a kinda "Trade Secret" LOL.

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        • #19
          Bo Markham has it. Just waiting for a price and shipping details.

          (Bo, I sent you a PM)
          KURTRUK
          (read it backwards)




          Nothing is politically right which is morally wrong. -A. Lincoln

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          • #20
            Tell him I need one too.... How much?

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            • #21
              Just in case anyone needs this.
              Attached Files
              "In the heart of Arkansas."
              Searcy, Arkansas
              1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
              1952 2R pickup

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              • #22
                I found a few NOS springs and got curious enough to rebuild a C Cab door latch. If the visible spring is the only thing wrong -

                The tangs spread pretty easy with a thin screw driver and a hammer to get it started. A larger screw driver was inserted and twist will open the tangs just enough to get the spring out.

                Install the new spring long end first up against the mechanism and use a large flat screwdriver in the center of the part that looks like a G . Twist to wind the spring up slightly, then push it down into the tang slot. Bash the tangs back down with your favorite hammer to capture the other end of the spring and you are all set.

                You should soak the whole thing in kerosene or something and follow with brake clean. Use some Luberplate white grease where needed and it should last another 50 years.

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