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Disc brake major squeal!

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  • Brakes: Disc brake major squeal!

    I replaced the pads on my 64 GT and they work great, but have a really bad squeal when slowing down to a stop. I put the anti-squeak coating on the back of the pads before I installed them but it did nothing. Any way to stop this?

    Thanks

  • #2
    Did you replace, resurface or clean your rotors? Are the pads properly aligned and centered to the rotor? Other than this, change the pad material. I would first give the pads a chance to break in before replacing them.
    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    SDC member since 1968
    Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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    • #3
      There are some pads which are very squeal prone. Ceramic and other hard, hi-temp pads are especially bad. It's worth a try to chamfer the edges if not already done.

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      • #4
        Mine made a lot of noise after installing new pads. I tried everything but greasing them. Now, after a few thousand miles, don't hear a thing.
        Hopefully yours will do the same.
        sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
        1950 Champion Convertible
        1950 Champion 4Dr
        1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
        1957 Thunderbird

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        • #5
          There is a little trick to use only in very tough cases. Take the graphite bar out of a pencil. Then, drill a corresponding diameter hole in the pads and insert a part of the graphite rod into it. Of course, the rod must be flush with the pad.
          sigpic

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          • #6
            Originally posted by jostanton1 View Post
            I replaced the pads on my 64 GT and they work great, but have a really bad squeal when slowing down to a stop. I put the anti-squeak coating on the back of the pads before I installed them but it did nothing. Any way to stop this?

            Thanks
            A bit too late at this point, but consider that I have owned my Avanti over 50 years, and only replaced the pads with original Girling green painted pads, and never experienced any pad squeal. New Girling (NOS) pads are still available from Jon Myer.

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            • #7
              I founds these on Ebay for a 64 Jaguar with the Bendix/Dunlap discs. Would these fit? Click image for larger version

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              • #8
                EBC Green stuff pads for Jaguar XKE (series 1) are about 30% better stopping power than any commercially available pad you can buy. You MUST fit the pads to the caliper bridge (sand the pads) Also make absolutly positively sure that the slot in the back of the pads go over the retractor head of the caliper piston. This is a MUST with ANY TYPE of pad you use. If the head of the piston button is bent, straighten it out, or replace it. It is critical to the smooth and quiet operation of the brakes. So is making sure the shims center the bridge over the rotor, and that it is parallel to it.


                https://xks.com/i-6916977-ebc-greens...0-17-9752.html
                Last edited by bezhawk; 05-19-2019, 05:28 PM.
                Bez Auto Alchemy
                573-318-8948
                http://bezautoalchemy.com


                "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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                • #9
                  Another source of squeal is a hanging caliper. I got a faulty new caliper that would not release, much less "retract" the pad when the pedal was released. Terrible noise, but it got worse as it warmed up. You might want to lift each side after a noise drive and see if both wheels turn equally and freely.

                  I have also gotten some faulty pads with which the metal plate pulled loose from the pad (immediately on install) leaving the pad wedged out against the rotor to squeal. I've seen some very poorly finished new pads for these things of late. I started buying for XKEs. The last "Studebaker" pads I got were total crappola--the slots were filled with paint, for a start, and wouldn't even install as shipped.

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                  • #10
                    Yep, it's very important to make sure the brake calipers slide freely on the pins. I replaced the brakes on my Olds about 8 years ago, but didn't remove and lube the steel sleeves the pins go through. The brakes dragged enough to overheat the front wheel bearings (even in the middle of a Minnesota winter) and after 3 weeks I had to replace both front wheel bearing assemblies.

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                    • #11
                      Not the correct pad, look for GDB-704 pads.
                      Originally posted by jostanton1 View Post
                      I founds these on Ebay for a 64 Jaguar with the Bendix/Dunlap discs. Would these fit? [ATTACH=CONFIG]80759[/ATTACH]

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                      • #12
                        If possible, look to purchase original Girling (green paint) pads....p/n: GDB-704
                        Originally posted by Xcalibur View Post
                        Another source of squeal is a hanging caliper. I got a faulty new caliper that would not release, much less "retract" the pad when the pedal was released. Terrible noise, but it got worse as it warmed up. You might want to lift each side after a noise drive and see if both wheels turn equally and freely.

                        I have also gotten some faulty pads with which the metal plate pulled loose from the pad (immediately on install) leaving the pad wedged out against the rotor to squeal. I've seen some very poorly finished new pads for these things of late. I started buying for XKEs. The last "Studebaker" pads I got were total crappola--the slots were filled with paint, for a start, and wouldn't even install as shipped.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by TWChamp View Post
                          Yep, it's very important to make sure the brake calipers slide freely on the pins. I replaced the brakes on my Olds about 8 years ago, but didn't remove and lube the steel sleeves the pins go through.
                          Studebaker disc brakes have a fixed caliper. They do not slide. There are no pins.

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                          • #14
                            Be very careful if putting on ss sleeved cylinders.....years ago I never checked closely, I kept feeling the car dragging....long story short...the "tit" that the pad slides onto was mashed, and the pad was never retracted, I took that cyl out and cut a place for the pad to slide onto....no problem the last 25 years.
                            Originally posted by rbisacca View Post
                            Studebaker disc brakes have a fixed caliper. They do not slide. There are no pins.

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                            • #15
                              If anyone has a vendor and part number for th XKE pads that fit I'd appreciate it. I'm gonna rebuild my calipers as soon as relocate. Thanks.

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