i purchased new rubber seals for the top of the doors and the windshield posts for my 64 GT. First, the windshield post rubber replacement came with just the rubber, but the old piece had a firm plastic shim under the stainless trim. Do I need that? I can't find it with any of the vendors. As for the rubber above the door, I installed it and the window glass and vent glass hits it before the door fully closes and makes the door tight. My question is: should the glass pop under and go in the rubber channel? Or should it just rest tight against the outside edge of the rubber? The old rubber was gone so I have no reference to go by. If anyone with a GT can send my some good close up pictures of how the glass seats against the rubber I would appreciate it so I can properly adjust things. THANK-YOU!
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Replacing upper door seals on GT Hawks
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Yes, re - use the shims, they are just held by body putty. The door and glass needs to set tight enough to seal but not too tight or it will ruin the new seal fast and be hard to close. Use a piece of paper or a dollar bill and shut it in the door. It should pull out with a good drag on it. The edge of the stainless glass moulding should just rub on the seal, then be tight when closed. Again, use a dollar bill to check it. The glass is adjustable in and out and up and down. . Pretty sure it's in the shop manual.
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Hi, I don't have the plastic shims anymore. They broke apart in pieces. I just have the stainless trim that apparently the new rubber slides into (referring to the windshield post rubber). Again, on the top of door rubber, are you saying the vent and glass should just close against the outside of the rubber or slip past and into the channel?
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They windows cant go too high. There is a chrome and rubber window stop screwed into the vent frame top channel. The whole VENT FRAME needs to be adjusted. Get a shop manual AND a parts manual, and study the pictures to see exactly where the mounting bolts are, and they are mounted to slotted or oversize holes, and are very adjustable. Up, down fore and aft, and in and outward tilt are ALL adjustable.Bez Auto Alchemy
573-318-8948
http://bezautoalchemy.com
"Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln
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Your stop is missing or worn out. Originally it had rubber vulcanized to it. Also the front window felt run is metal backed, and when new the metal wraps slightly over the top. Now it doesn't If your stuff is worn out it won't fit. That's just how it is.Bez Auto Alchemy
573-318-8948
http://bezautoalchemy.com
"Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln
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I have studied the shop manual over and over and done every adjustment. My doors will still not line up with the upper weatherstrip. They are tilted too far inward and and then the window glass will not line up properly to seal with the rear quarter windows. I don't have enough "play' in the adjustment to get this right. I am wondering if it's worth spending the money to have a bodyshop pro handle it.
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To me, the first logical step would be to check that the door is perfectly aligned with the body as the positon of the fenders can sometimes be misleading.
I use this document as a reference:https://www.danchuk.com/images/Downl...djustments.pdf
Best of luck and nice week-end to all.sigpic
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Originally posted by jostanton1 View PostI have studied the shop manual over and over and done every adjustment. My doors will still not line up with the upper weatherstrip. They are tilted too far inward and and then the window glass will not line up properly to seal with the rear quarter windows. I don't have enough "play' in the adjustment to get this right. I am wondering if it's worth spending the money to have a bodyshop pro handle it.Gary L.
Wappinger, NY
SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer
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