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  • Transmission / Overdrive: Gear Fluid 4 speed Truck

    I have a 1959 Studebaker 1/2 ton Deluxe (Transtar) with 289 and 4 speed. I ordered a quart of Amzoil severe 75/90 to replace existing oil which I don't think had ever been changed. The Amzoil in the bag rather than bottle works great, eliminates need for a pump. 2 Questions: 1. It does not appear a quart is enough (in spite of what the clerk and NAPA said). What is the capacity? 2. Do I need to order another quart(s) of the amzoil to stay consistent, or can I just get whatever more I need from NAPA and reuse the Amzoil bag to install?

  • #2
    I don't know if mixing gear lubes will destroy your transmission, but why dilute a top quality gear lube like the Amsoil gear lube. I don't however recommend using the Amsoil Severe Gear lube in your transmission as it is a GL5 rated lube. A better choice would be the Amsoil 75W-90 Manual Transmission Oil as it is meant for use in manual transmissions and does not have additives that can cause problems with yellow metals like the synchronizer rings. You will need 3 quarts of lube to fill the transmission. The transmission probably won't take all of that, but it will be close. Bud

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    • #3
      Agree with Bud on the lube. Studebaker specifically warned against using lubes with EP additives in their standard transmissions. Assuming the trans is a Warner T98A, the shop manual shows the capacity as 8 pints.
      Skip Lackie

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      • #4
        Just a note on EP gear oils. The extreme pressure additive is a sulfur compound, and it will slowly attack copper alloys, brass or bronze. So do not use EP oils in tannys with brass/bronze parts. For all steel trans, EP is good.

        Most trannys with brass/bronze parts will be just fine on motor oil, 15W40 or 20W50.

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        • #5
          Never mix a Synthetic with a Dino Oil.

          Drain that expensive, wrong Lube out and get the correct amount; THREE Quarts of the "right stuff', Grade "GL-1"!

          The "Pump" to install on Quart or Gallon Gear Lube bottles is not much $ and can be reused many times for all of your Manual Transmissions and Differentials.
          A "Bag" sounds like an awkward, messy method.

          The Studebaker Shop Manual specifies the correct Amounts, Types and Weights.
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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          • #6
            Thanks guys for all your help. I readily admit I don't know what I'm doing. But I did purchase the specific Amsoil (sorry for prior misspelling) product based on recommendation from Turning Wheels, specifically Feb 2019 issue, Co-Operator, page 15. I don't think the correct Amsoil product comes in the bag. And contrary to one of you said, the bag is not messy to use at all, very easy. This process has already cost my @ $30... and I think 3 or 4 quarts of the right stuff at NAPA is going to run me @ $60. So I don't want to add the cost of a pump also or try and figure out how to use it (I can't change a light bulb without reading directions first). So I'm going to try and pour the right product into the empty bag and reuse it. Thanks again.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by JohnL View Post
              I can't change a light bulb without reading directions first
              Next time go to any of the quick lube places. It'll take ten minutes, cost about the same, and save you lots of aggravation.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by jnormanh View Post
                Next time go to any of the quick lube places. It'll take ten minutes, cost about the same, and save you lots of aggravation.
                Yeah, good Luck with that one!
                Try finding a Lube Shop that carries GL-1 Gear Oil in 2019.
                StudeRich
                Second Generation Stude Driver,
                Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                • #9
                  Personally, I would not take any vintage vehicle to those quick lube places. They have never seen anything older than a ten year old Honda and are likely to screw something up.

                  This is just my opinion, but I value it highly.
                  RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

                  17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
                  10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                  10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
                  4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                  5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
                  56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
                  60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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                  • #10
                    "Tractor Supply" has a gallon of GL1 for around $20-$25. A pump from a hand cleaner or laundry detergent bottle will usually fit. Scrounge around and see what you can find, last ditch, a mustard bottle with a hose will work, it just doesn't hold much so will need to be filled a few times.
                    sigpic

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                    • #11
                      Do the T10 & T98 trannys have soft, yellow metals inside ??

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                      • #12
                        Most synchro rings are brass. We did build some 'crash' boxes with steel rings for racing.
                        78 Avanti RQB 2792
                        64 Avanti R1 R5408
                        63 Avanti R1 R4551
                        63 Avanti R1 R2281
                        62 GT Hawk V15949
                        56 GH 6032504
                        56 GH 6032588
                        55 Speedster 7160047
                        55 Speedster 7165279

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                        • #13
                          Some time back I changed out my oil on a four speed and used synthetic as was recommended by Tech Talk and noticed a significant change for the better as the shifting really became much easier. I purchased the oil from NAPA but can not say anything about whether it was GL 1 or 5. I may be in trouble. Any thoughts?

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by chet445 View Post
                            Some time back I changed out my oil on a four speed and used synthetic as was recommended by Tech Talk and noticed a significant change for the better as the shifting really became much easier. I purchased the oil from NAPA but can not say anything about whether it was GL 1 or 5. I may be in trouble. Any thoughts?
                            Talk to the folks at NAPA. If it's anything other than GL-1, drain and replace it. If no one knows, replace it.

                            Here's everything you need to know about gear oils -

                            https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil

                            And, just FYI, viscosity is specified differently for gear oils than for motor oils.

                            90 wt gear oil has the same viscosity as 50 wt motor oil.

                            85 wt gear oils the same as 30 wt motor oil

                            80 wt the same as 20W

                            75 wt the same as 10w

                            I've used motor oil in British gearboxes (brass and bronze bushings and syncros) since the 1960s. Never had a gearbox wear out. However I broke a few - rev the engine, side-step the clutch, smoke the tires and BANG! Studebaker gearboxes will break with the same abuse. BTDT.

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                            • #15
                              Double check the specs on the synthetic. I use royal purpleā€™s max gear and it specifically states it is safe for all ferrous metals.

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