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Fuel line removal from gas tank

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  • Fuel System: Fuel line removal from gas tank

    I'm about to drop the fuel tank on my 55 Commander for a thorough cleaning. When I look up fuel line removal on youtube I only see modern cars with some kind of slide release you need special tools for. On the Studebaker I only see a hex sided collar up against the tank. Is it just as simple as taking a wrench to it or are there things I have to watch out for so that I don't ruin anything? The fuel line itself looks pretty sturdy so I do want to reuse it.

  • #2
    Make sure to use a tubing wrench to grip as much of the nut's surface as you can. You might want to soak it for a few days also.
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

    17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
    10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
    56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
    60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible


    • #3
      The Compression Nut on the Flared original Fuel Line will be tight and rusted into the Fitting that is soldered into the Tank, so as Roy said; soak it good first with PB Blaster, Kroil or other good Penetrant and let it soak in a couple times before trying to turn that Nut without turning the Fitting on the Tank.

      Usually after 63 Years these bare Steel Fuel Lines are quite rusted from the inside out, so may need to be completely replaced.
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner


      • #4
        Do yourself a profound favor and spend the $25 or so necessary to replace all the fuel lines. Many times they are rusting under the retaining clips, or are rusting internally , if the car has sat for a long time. Tiny pinholes will cause all sorts of vapor lock-like symptoms and little rust flakes will cause all manner of problems with fuel pumps and carbs. You can buy lengths of 5/16 tubing at the auto parts store and hook them together with brass couplers.

        Please do the same with your brake tubing. It rusts externally, of course, but also internally the same way old wheel cylinders do. You will buy more actual safety by doing that than a dual master cylinder conversion.


        • #5
          I replaced my fuel line as it had pin holes at each clasp, when replaced I put a rubber sleeve over the pipe at each clasp. The engine would not start with the pin holes, would not suck any fuel. At the time I tried 3 different fuel pumps and still no go. With the new fuel line it was like magic.


          • #6
            If you decide to replace your brake line you can, after soaking the fitting as mentioned, cut the old fuel line close to the fitting. Then you will be able to use a 6pt socket to remove; less chance of rounding off the hex as with a wrench.