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  • Ignition: Timing

    Hi everybody, having trouble with timing on a rebuilt engine. Did the cam break-in-10mins @2200rpm, (shut off let cool for an hour), did that a couple more times for a total of 30mins. It runs very well @ 1400rpm (or so my digital timing light says), carb is adjusted on the lowest idle speed and it doesn't like anything under that 1400rpm (bogs, surges, runs on when shut off), and I cannot get the timing mark to come close to the pointer when running. It's like it's permanently advanced. It's a '64 289, bored .030,R1 cam, aluminum cam gear, 4bbl intake, Edelbrock 5oocfm carb and a modified stude distributor w/ the BB dodge internals,chevy 4 pin module and ford performance coil. Any advice of where to start would be appreciated. Thanks.

  • #2
    Did we have a discussion recently about some aluminum cam gears being incorrectly marked? If I remember that right, it scares me, because I just put one together without checking if it was correct.

    jack vines
    PackardV8

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    • #3
      Verify the external items first. Thoroughly Inspect the distributor. I've had 3 rebuilds (.030 & .060 over) run poorly at low rpm until I replaced the distributor. Mechanical or vacuum advance sticking, floating. Shaft bushings worn causing erratic timing. Recheck the valve adjustment. Too tight will cause low manifold vacuum and poor idle. I've also experienced clogged idle and off idle ports from ethanol on my Edelbrocks, making low rpm difficult.
      Mike Olas
      61 Hawk
      65 Commander
      66 Cruiser

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      • #4
        I am pretty sure the Parts were sold a LONG Time ago Jack.

        If it's the ones I remember, AND I got it right, it was some 6 Cly. ones that were modified (Machined down Thinner) and SHOULD have been re-timing marked but were not. Probably from SASCO.

        They were this Original Type:
        Click image for larger version

Name:	Alum Cam Gear.jpg
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ID:	1725774 I do not know if any of the New Reproduction Type (Solid Disc) had a Problem.
        Last edited by StudeRich; 03-23-2019, 10:32 PM.
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Corkyz View Post
          Hi everybody, having trouble with timing on a rebuilt engine./Cut/and a modified stude distributor w/ the BB dodge internals,chevy 4 pin module and ford performance coil./Cut/
          So this is a '62-'64 Stude. Prestolite with a "Experimental" Distributor modification and Coil, that no one has EVER run?
          THAT would be the FIRST place I would look.

          Are the Timing Marks showing Advanced, (to the Car's Left of UDC)?
          Last edited by StudeRich; 03-23-2019, 10:36 PM.
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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          • #6
            The advance curve and amount of advance is different between what is built into an original Studebaker Prestolite Studebaker distributor and what was used in the Chrysler Prestolite distributors. My recommendation would be to try to find someone that still has a distributor machine and get your distributor checked for the rate and amount of advance built into it before condemning the timing gear. Bud

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            • #7
              Original assembly is important I always assemble an engine with #1 at top dead center and also confirm the timing marks are where they should be on the dampener, this will at least give you a head start. I do not move the engine until all the ignition wires are connected. As an additional caution I resurfaced the intake and exhaust manifolds to assure no leaks. The carburetor was completely disassembled and the body placed in an ultrasonic bath to assure no restrictions then carefully reassembled. The engine started first turn and will idle right down to nothing with no sputtering and will accelerate rapidly with no coughing or hesitations. The only non Studebaker part is the carb it is from a Buick 400 every thing lines up with no modifications. This car is not ready for the road yet but I start the engine at once or twice a week, the engine starts and runs on 6 volts.
              ,

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              • #8
                I missed the " modified distributor" detail. "Bud" is absolutely correct. Start with the distributor. Even if you have to pull one from a working engine to validate the issue. Check with a fellow club member. The Studebaker world is quite generous helping others.
                Mike Olas
                61 Hawk
                65 Commander
                66 Cruiser

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                • #9
                  If anybody is truly worried about having a mismarked cam gear, there is a procedure in the service manual for checking the valve timing without dismantling the engine. Fairly simple, with a feeler gauge on #1 intake valve, rotate and check marks on damper. You would have to read the whole section for instructions.

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