Ignition: electronic ignition - which module?

[stl_turkis]

One of the big things I've wanted to do with the truck in getting it on the road is to install an electronic ignition module in the dizzy. Been using them trouble-free for years in my old VW's and would like the same for the Studey if available.

I went through years of posts on the topic and no one ever says what module they actually ended up getting! And the make/model picker on the Pertronix site only lists for the 6cyl trucks.

Finally one bit of info I gleaned from past threads was to look it up by distributor # instead of y/m/m/
it took some doing, but after a while I finally figured out how to do that on Pertronix's web site..

Assuming I read my tag right, I've got a Delco 1110839 dizzy,
and that calls for module # 1183
https://pertronix.com/pertronix-1183...ription_tabbed



I'm ready to pull the trigger, but sure would like someone to double-check my work 1st..

Cheers,
Brian

[tsenecal]

I checked it out. Went to ignitors, then by distributor, then delco, but couldn't find 110839. Hopefully, somebody else here can verify the number, or you could call their tech line.

[RadioRoy]

Brian's numbers have one more digit (7 digits total) than Tom listed. I looked it up and got the same as Brian (1183) assuming the truck is 12 volt negative ground.

You might want to go with an ignitor 2, which is 91183

I cannot seem to find the difference between an Ignitor and an Ignitor 2. I THOUGHT the difference was that the Ignitor 2 would not fry itself if the ignition was left ON without the engine running, but it seems to me that Pertronix should have fixed that in the Ignitor 1 by now.

I have several Ignitor 1 units installed and they all perform flawlessly for my cars.

[StudeRich]

As I have said here maybe a Dozen times or more, you need to buy Pertronixs Units from Phil Harris at Fairborn Studebaker a Turning Wheels Advertiser, to get the best service and more importantly the Correct one to avoid time and money consuming, Returns and shipping.
Phone: Nine-Three-7-878-157Six.

NEVER trust Pertronix info for Stude's. they do NOT know their own Parts.

That said, the 1183 on my Fairborn Application List is for a AUTOLITE 12V-Neg., 8cyl. Dual Point for a 1956 Golden Hawk!

An early Delco for a V8, Negative Ground, 12V, Studebaker, gets the 1187 or 1187LS Igniter.

One thing is, the Igniter II Module, requires the Igniter II 45,000 Volt Coil wired directly to keyed, full 12 volts without resistance.

[RadioRoy]

Rich
Thanks for the info.
Has Pertronix fixed the problem of Ignitor 1 units frying if the ignition is left on without the engine running?

[StudeRich]

Yes I believe so, I have been selling these for Early Delcos, and their price is close to our's.

I would NEVER buy them from the Co. that SHOULD know what they are selling.

Can you even think of a worse mismatch if you tried?
I mean a Unit sold for a AUTOLITE that is actually for a Dual Point Delco in a Packard V8!

I noticed searching their "Site" just for laughs, that nothing comes up for "Studebaker" in Unilite New Distributors or Electronic Modules!
And when you search a Pertronixs known Part Number for a Stude. Module, NO Application info shows up at all!

[bensherb]

I cannot seem to find the difference between an Ignitor and an Ignitor 2.

The ignitor 2 senses coil saturation and constantly adjust the dwell to maintain maximum saturation, and thus hottest spark. The original ignitor doesn't have this ability.

If you think about how this igniter works, it doesn't really matter which one you get as long as it fits inside your DISTRIBUTOR housing.

I've used them on my VW's with no complaints too, but chose to use a GM HEI in my stude. It works great!

[stl_turkis]

As I have said here maybe a Dozen times or more, you need to buy Pertronixs Units from Phil Harris at Fairborn Studebaker a Turning Wheels Advertiser, to get the best service and more importantly the Correct one to avoid time and money consuming, Returns and shipping.
Phone: Nine-Three-7-878-157Six.

thanks Rich, I emailed him yesterday after someone said the same on the Truck Talk forum. Calling today to get it sorted.

Cheers,
Brian

[wittsend]

http://www.pertronix.com.au/assets/p...structions.pdf

Even the current instructions stated not to leave the key on with the Ignitor 1. To that end Pertronix stated the the Ignitor 2 does not have that problem. Additionally I found a number of 2017/2018 posts (The HAMB etc.) with people complaining their Ignitor 1 had failed and it is assumptive they were purchased relatively recent. So, no, I don't believe they ever fixed the "problem."

FWIW I have a slip connector on my Pertronix Ignitor 1's red wire under the hood. So far (7+ years) I have remembered to disconnect it when I have had "ignition on, engine not running" situations. Often times the Ignitor is misunderstood. It does NOT send 12 V+ to the coil because it is "electronic." Rather it grounds the coil just like points do. It is just that the grounding is done electronically, not mechanically. This is why the Pertronix unit itself should get a full 12 volts, not lesser voltage after the coil resistor (And, yes, I know..., some have done so without issue). Your coil should get whatever voltage it was designed for with the proper resistor.

BTW, anyone here ever adapt a Mopar reluctor to a Studebaker type distributor (My Stude is SBC powered so I'm not familiar with the type) and use the Mopar magnetic pick up and box? For those with the equipment to do so (mill/lathe) it seems an economical way of getting electronic ignition and finding available parts "on the road."

[doofus]

In the 90's i built an electronic ignition for a 63 lark using 78 dodge dist for parts. a 318 dis. was gutted for parts. Stude "Pestolite" dist and mopar guts, been going strong as daily driver till last year when used module crapped out. replaced it and back on the road again. have at it, Luck Doofus

[PackardV8]

Even the current instructions stated not to leave the key on with the Ignitor 1. To that end Pertronix stated the the Ignitor 2 does not have that problem. Additionally I found a number of 2017/2018 posts (The HAMB etc.) with people complaining their Ignitor 1 had failed and it is assumptive they were purchased relatively recent. So, no, I don't believe they ever fixed the "problem."

Switching on the power is a normal troubleshooting procedure. So no, I'll never forgive Pertronix and never buy another of their POS products; selling a unit which is guaranteed to fail in a usual operating mode is just wrong.

http://www.pertronix.com.au/assets/p...structions.pdf BTW, anyone here ever adapt a Mopar reluctor to a Studebaker type distributor (My Stude is SBC powered so I'm not familiar with the type) and use the Mopar magnetic pick up and box? For those with the equipment to do so (mill/lathe) it seems an economical way of getting electronic ignition and finding available parts "on the road."

Doofus said, "In the 90's i built an electronic ignition for a 63 lark using 78 dodge dist for parts. a 318 dis. was gutted for parts. Stude "Pestolite" dist and mopar guts,"

Yes, agree. We've been doing both Delco and Prestolite conversions to the Mopar trigger for thirty years now. We've got three rebuilt and converted units on the shelf. They cost twice as much as the Chicom bling, but they look correct and use readily available and bulletproof parts.

jack vines

[wittsend]

Switching on the power is a normal troubleshooting procedure. So no, I'll never forgive Pertronix and never buy another of their POS products; selling a unit which is guaranteed to fail in a usual operating mode is just wrong

Agreed. It was just that the Ebay purchased SBC rebuilt Delco distributor with the Pertronix Ignitor 1 installed for $25 (including shipping), was just too tempting for my CASO wallet. It was just a "right time, right place, right price" purchase. I'm sure the day I forget and do fry it I'll feel the same way about Pertronix.

In my Sunbeam Tiger world I know a number of people have complained they have fried their Pertronix. Likely they left their ignition in the on position while trying to free up their SU fuel pump. Hey maybe if the history is traced back a Pertronix designer previously worked for Lucas?

[kxet]

I use a Delco HEI modul on a Mopar electronic distributer, the Mopar Modul and resistors are not that dependable. Got the idea from a Mopar forum years ago. It is an early electronic distributer, mid 70s /6 cyl. No resistors involved. Am looking for an extra 49 Champion distributer to see if the Mopar reluctor can be adapted. I use an early GM HEI inline 6 coil but use a VW coil on another engine, The box coil looks racy and VW looks retro. Both have ran for lot of miles ok,40000 on slant six, no problems.

[DEEPNHOCK]

The Ignitor II has an RPM limiter built into it (which few Stude's need).
The ignitor II takes a bit more to install than an Ignitor I.
But....
Nothing the Ignitor does has anything to do with mechanical advance.
If yours is worn or hanging up, the Ignitor won't change that.
I'd be almost compelled to scoff the skeptic's and try the Ebay electronic distributor and get everything new.

[Frank DuVal]

I do think it is funny, as the Chrysler modules were very unreliable back in the 80s. I see you say "trigger", so whose module do you use? No way would I have thought the Chrysler module could ever be called bullet proof. Replaced too many of them back then.