Electrical: Headlight Bucket Parking LIght Bulb Removal

[fpstude]

I'm re-conditioning the headlight buckets on our 1950 Champion. Before I start applying pressure in different ways to remove the bulb, can someone enlighten me in how it is installed? It is very firmly in place. I'm sure it is rusted in place, due the condition of the rest of the bucket, as you can see. Damaging the wiring is not a problem as all wiring is being replaced. I did this thirty years ago on our Starlight Coupe, but I don't remember the details.

[RadioRoy]

The bulb is a standard bayonet, push in and twist CCW-type. Unfortunately it is probably rusted into place. Wear gloves and safety glasses when you try to remove the bulb. It might be best to soak it in penetrant for a few days, then dry off the glass so it's not slippery.

The socket looks like a reverse bayonet - push in and turn CW. After much soaking, that is.

[Mrs K Corbin]

penetrating oil.

[tsenecal]

If they are really stuck, just break the bulb and fold the brass portion inside of itself with needle nose pliers. Good luck with it.

[jackb]

see #4 above

[Mrs K Corbin]

Yep, done that too.

[fpstude]

Thanks for the great input. I got the bulb out as a little wad of crushed metal. Now to get the rust cleaned out of the socket. My question now, if I may, is the part number of a bulb to use. The photo below is our '50 Starlight with the parking /turn-signal bulb. It has a 6V 1158 bulb. This car will be 12V. The 1158 has two guide tabs, both equal distance from the contact end of the bulb. I need a 12 V bulb with the same configuration.

[rbisacca]

1034 or 1157

The 1157 lamp can sustain 590 milliamps of electrical current at 14 volts, and lasts an average of 3,000 hours. The 1034 lamp lasts an average of 5,000 hours under these conditions. Since both lamps are used as combination turn-signal and marker lamps, choose the lamp that suits your needs best.

[fpstude]

To be more specific, the locking prongs on the 1158 6V bulb are both at the bottom of the contact end of the bulb. This is the configuration I need. The 1034 and the 1157 have the locking prongs staggered. I have searched and been unable to find a 12 V bulb constructed like the 6V 1158. Below is a photo of a 6V 1158.

In advance, thanks,

[gjamesk]

Looking at this page looks like you need an 1176 lamp.

http://www.taillightking.com/light_bulbs.htm

[tim333]

I need sockets with the wires still attached for my 51. The PO, instead of trying to clean the rust and get the bulbs out, cut the wires off flush at the back and then installed fog lights on the front bumper to use as turn signals!! I cleaned the rust and got the sockets out but they’re useless with no wires. I’ll give someone the fog lights if they can find me two sockets.

[skyway]

"The 1034 and the 1157 have the locking prongs staggered."

If you can't find the actual bulb, you can always file or grind off the offending prong.
Have done this and it worked.

[fpstude]

A special thanks to my Tempe, AZ Studebaker friend, post #10. What a bulb list, it is saved in my favorites. I went to my local CARQUEST store / Advanced Auto, and they had two 1176 lamps on the back shelf.

[sweetolbob]

I need sockets with the wires still attached for my 51. The PO, instead of trying to clean the rust and get the bulbs out, cut the wires off flush at the back and then installed fog lights on the front bumper to use as turn signals!! I cleaned the rust and got the sockets out but they’re useless with no wires. I’ll give someone the fog lights if they can find me two sockets.

Tim

You should be able use the original sockets with this pigtail. Most flaps should have them or be able to get them for you. They should have the single contact ones also.

http://www.wiringdepot.com/store/p/4...ing-2-Pcs.aspx

Bob

[Frank DuVal]

Just make sure the "bright" filament is for turn signals. If not, remove bulb, rotate 180 degrees, reinstall.