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  • TXmark
    replied
    Mine is quiet what can I say

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  • 64V-K7
    replied
    Originally posted by TXmark View Post
    Actually I have very good hearing, the pump has insulating bushings it's pretty quiet. Try sticking to the technical issues of this forum, and less sarcasism
    Not sarcasm. I have the same pump mounted over the diff, with the bushings and it sounds like a "707" is parking behind you. The noise is not coming thru the frame, it's just ambient rotor noise.

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  • BRUCESTUDE
    replied
    I have my frame mounted electric pump wired up with an oil pressure switch, and have had no problems starting after the car has sat for a period of time. The 259 develops enough oil pressure while cranking to activate the pump.

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  • TXmark
    replied
    Originally posted by 64V-K7 View Post
    What brand of earplugs did you use?

    Actually I have very good hearing, the pump has insulating bushings it's pretty quiet. Try sticking to the technical issues of this forum, and less sarcasism

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  • doofus
    replied
    I have used electric fuel pumps for years with great success,always the cheapest i could find. started using Carter brand 5 years ago USA made. in last 3 years have gone through 5 pumps on different Studes! all have filters between tank and pump and one right at carb as a warning device. not sure whats up as they all sound like an empty gas tank but only pump a dribble with no press. will try to sort this out through favorite FLAPS as they are very helpful.may have to resort to rebuilding old mechanical pumps! the 1 carter rotary pump is still going strong since 08. it's the solenoid pumps that fail. Luck Doofus

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  • bensherb
    replied
    Originally posted by LarkingAround View Post
    I have a Facet Pro (I believe it's American made) on my 289 Daytona. I did have a Hardy but the fuel pressure was much too low. The Facet Pro is great
    Can't find info on a "Pro", but every Facet pump I've seen is VERY noisey, though they do work well. I have one on my VW to prime; it would drive me insane to run it all the time.

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  • LarkingAround
    replied
    I have a Facet Pro (I believe it's American made) on my 289 Daytona. I did have a Hardy but the fuel pressure was much too low. The Facet Pro is great

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  • 53starliner
    replied
    I used a Carter P90091 rotary vane pump on both my 63 Hawk and 53 Starliner...works on both 6 & 12 volt. They are $38.99 at Jeggs and Summit, $42.99 on Amazon. I used a Carter A68301 three terminal pressure switch sourced from Amazon. The 3rd terminal is closed with no pressure to allow the pump to fill the carb on starting. You don't have to use the third terminal. I don't because I use a 3-position toggle switch, BYPASS (the Pressure switch)-OFF-Pressure switch. I do that because in hot weather the gas expands in the carb and floods the engine on shut off. I turn off the pump just before I stop to lower the fuel level in the bowl, and it starts nicely when hot. I used the rotary vane pump because they a quieter than the diaphragm pumps, and more reliable.

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  • bensherb
    replied
    Mine is on the frame just in front of the spring mount. It's so freekin quiet you can only, just barely, hear it if its very quiet and you have door open and listen for it. It's a replacemenmt for a Toyota, was under $10.
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  • 64V-K7
    replied
    Originally posted by TXmark View Post
    I have used a Carter vane pump.mounted on the frame near the rear shock
    What brand of earplugs did you use?

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  • TXmark
    replied
    I have used a Carter vane pump.mounted on the frame near the rear shock

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  • swvalcon
    replied
    wittsend I do believe that both Jegs and Speedway sell a oil pressure switch that is wired so when on the starter side it has power to the coil but when on the main side only has power if you have oil pressure.

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  • bensherb
    replied
    Yea, a million ways to do it. I was just answering his question as simply as possible. It sound as though he has no experiance or knowledge in this area.

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  • wittsend
    replied
    Which is why the impact switch used in millions of Fords and likely available from a JY for a few dollars is more practical.

    You can still use an oil pressure switch if you want. There are toggle switchs available with three positions. Off/On/Momentarily On. If the momentarily on (12 v+) was wired to the pump - and a relay that grounded the pumps (-) side the pump would run to start the car and once oil pressure was established the switch could be released from the momentarily on to the on position and continue to run - though the relay has disengaged.

    The down side is that it would take two hands, one to keep the switch on and one to turn the key. So, mounting the switch in proximity to your free hand is important. The second issue is that if the car stalled and the float bowls were dry one would have to take their hands off the steering wheel to attempt to restart the car. So, definitely a "Do at Your Own Risk" option. Re-read the paragraph one above for a better option.

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  • Jeffry Cassel
    replied
    If you have an oil pressure switch, it will not come on 'til you have oil pressure, ergo, it is of no value in starting a car that has not run in a couple weeks (or months) unless you also run an oil pressure switch bypass circuit so you can run pump before starting engine. I do not use the switch but use the elec. pump for starting and for mech pump failure. And, yes, electric pumps can also fail. Be sure to put filter B4 the pump! Fuse the circuit!

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