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  • Fuel System: electric fuel pump

    Can anyone give guidance on an electric fuel pump install (62 Hawk)? I want to include an oil pressure switch for safety but not sure what type of switch to look for, where and how to mount it, and how to wire it....any help would be most appreciated..thanks...Lance

  • #2
    Check with Summit racing they should have what you need. It looks almost like a oil pressure sending unit. Just lets the starter work but if no oil pressure kills power to the coil and pump as soon as the starter circuit is turned off. This way if you loose oil pressure it shuts off the pump.

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    • #3
      Just get an oil pressure switch for an idiot light, screw it into an oil gallery and wire it to the ground wire on your pump; the pump will not run without oil pressure. Of course it won't help you get it started when the fuel has evaporated from your carb either. If you want it to work for priming (which is why many use one) you'll need to add a switch to bypass the oil pressure switch. (just a switch with one side in the wire before the oil pressure switch and the other to ground)

      Click image for larger version

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      Last edited by bensherb; 03-16-2019, 07:11 PM.
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      • #4
        If you have an oil pressure switch, it will not come on 'til you have oil pressure, ergo, it is of no value in starting a car that has not run in a couple weeks (or months) unless you also run an oil pressure switch bypass circuit so you can run pump before starting engine. I do not use the switch but use the elec. pump for starting and for mech pump failure. And, yes, electric pumps can also fail. Be sure to put filter B4 the pump! Fuse the circuit!

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        • #5
          Which is why the impact switch used in millions of Fords and likely available from a JY for a few dollars is more practical.

          You can still use an oil pressure switch if you want. There are toggle switchs available with three positions. Off/On/Momentarily On. If the momentarily on (12 v+) was wired to the pump - and a relay that grounded the pumps (-) side the pump would run to start the car and once oil pressure was established the switch could be released from the momentarily on to the on position and continue to run - though the relay has disengaged.

          The down side is that it would take two hands, one to keep the switch on and one to turn the key. So, mounting the switch in proximity to your free hand is important. The second issue is that if the car stalled and the float bowls were dry one would have to take their hands off the steering wheel to attempt to restart the car. So, definitely a "Do at Your Own Risk" option. Re-read the paragraph one above for a better option.
          '64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.

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          • #6
            Yea, a million ways to do it. I was just answering his question as simply as possible. It sound as though he has no experiance or knowledge in this area.
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            • #7
              wittsend I do believe that both Jegs and Speedway sell a oil pressure switch that is wired so when on the starter side it has power to the coil but when on the main side only has power if you have oil pressure.

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              • #8
                I have used a Carter vane pump.mounted on the frame near the rear shock
                Mark Riesch
                New Bern, NC

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by TXmark View Post
                  I have used a Carter vane pump.mounted on the frame near the rear shock
                  What brand of earplugs did you use?
                  64 GT Hawk (K7)
                  1970 Avanti (R3)

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                  • #10
                    Mine is on the frame just in front of the spring mount. It's so freekin quiet you can only, just barely, hear it if its very quiet and you have door open and listen for it. It's a replacemenmt for a Toyota, was under $10.
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                    • #11
                      I used a Carter P90091 rotary vane pump on both my 63 Hawk and 53 Starliner...works on both 6 & 12 volt. They are $38.99 at Jeggs and Summit, $42.99 on Amazon. I used a Carter A68301 three terminal pressure switch sourced from Amazon. The 3rd terminal is closed with no pressure to allow the pump to fill the carb on starting. You don't have to use the third terminal. I don't because I use a 3-position toggle switch, BYPASS (the Pressure switch)-OFF-Pressure switch. I do that because in hot weather the gas expands in the carb and floods the engine on shut off. I turn off the pump just before I stop to lower the fuel level in the bowl, and it starts nicely when hot. I used the rotary vane pump because they a quieter than the diaphragm pumps, and more reliable.
                      Fred

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                      • #12
                        I have a Facet Pro (I believe it's American made) on my 289 Daytona. I did have a Hardy but the fuel pressure was much too low. The Facet Pro is great
                        The funniest thing about this signature is by the time you realise it says nothing important, it's too late to stop reading it.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by LarkingAround View Post
                          I have a Facet Pro (I believe it's American made) on my 289 Daytona. I did have a Hardy but the fuel pressure was much too low. The Facet Pro is great
                          Can't find info on a "Pro", but every Facet pump I've seen is VERY noisey, though they do work well. I have one on my VW to prime; it would drive me insane to run it all the time.
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                          • #14
                            I have used electric fuel pumps for years with great success,always the cheapest i could find. started using Carter brand 5 years ago USA made. in last 3 years have gone through 5 pumps on different Studes! all have filters between tank and pump and one right at carb as a warning device. not sure whats up as they all sound like an empty gas tank but only pump a dribble with no press. will try to sort this out through favorite FLAPS as they are very helpful.may have to resort to rebuilding old mechanical pumps! the 1 carter rotary pump is still going strong since 08. it's the solenoid pumps that fail. Luck Doofus

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by 64V-K7 View Post
                              What brand of earplugs did you use?

                              Actually I have very good hearing, the pump has insulating bushings it's pretty quiet. Try sticking to the technical issues of this forum, and less sarcasism
                              Mark Riesch
                              New Bern, NC

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