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  • BRUCESTUDE
    replied
    I've given up; my last 2 V8 rebuilds developed the dreaded rear engine oil leak, not much, but still, drips suck. I suspect the fact that I trimmed that stupid arch gasket, not much but there was no way it fit, even with the engine upside down on a stand! Anyway, I now use a "diaper": 2 wadded up paper shop towels jammed between the oil pan and bell housing, which I change out every so often. I know it's hokey, but it prevents drips (not leaks) and the 259 sure purrs so I don't sweat it!

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  • altair
    replied
    You can still get excess crankcase pressure if your breather cap is plugged. I had a 6 that leaked every where. I replaced several gaskets and the leaking was just as bad, I couldn't stop it. I was just checking things one day and lifted the breather cap off and the engine pitch changed and the telltale smoke from the vent tube stopped. When I replaced the cap the engine was chugging a little bit different and the smoke from the vent pipe reappeared. At the time I wasn't sure of the cause until I looked at the breather cap and it was plugged solid. After cleaning the breather cap it was like a new engine smooth and responsive (for a small 6 that is). So often we go down the wrong road chasing shadows, I have done it many times, even experienced service people suffer from the same thing from time to time. It is not usually a great loss to them because the customer pays. I took my car back to a service shop 4 times for an aledged O2 sensor when all the time it was the fuel pressure regulator. They got head strong on that issue and would not budge until I got heavy with them and forced then to look a little deeper in to the problem, they were then so proud that they found the problem. This wasn't a Mom and Pop shop it was a large dealership.

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  • PackardV8
    replied
    Yes, proper installation is the first requirement.

    No, it's not a guarantee there will be no leaks if the engine has combustion blow-by and thus pressure in the crankcase pushing the oil out past the seal.

    Maybe, every rebuild should have best-science cylinder wall finish; i.e. a precision honing with diamond stones. The rings seating and sealing against round and straight cylinder walls keeps combustion pressure out of the crankcase.

    jack vines

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  • doofus
    replied
    Either way you choose to install the seal a dab of sealer on the end of the seal is a good bet. I have done them the offset way for years with good results. In my case a leaky rear main has always been something else leaking(Knock on Wood). Luck Doofus, yes that's my screen name.

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  • Xcalibur
    replied
    StuderRich said it all.

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  • jackb
    replied
    Just an FYI, there is a TW photo shoot of the new 59' Lark Police fleet for the city of South Bend. I vaguely remember Mr(s). Newman and/or Altman posing with 3-4 of these cars and maybe the chief. Brand new cars showed the obligatory oil patches under the engines. That confirmed to me that these era engines were developed to leak after some early operation. Now that oil prices are north of $4./qt. its a bit more perplexing.

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    Yes I have done it one time on my '54 Commander Land Cruiser 232 V8, and it worked fine.
    However I have also installed them the correct way and also had good results.

    No harm in doing that, it did work very well just carefully install the tiny side Seals and Main Brg. Side Corks properly.

    The original Brummer Seals I used had the side Seals loose and round, not square and attached to one half seal like later versions of both Brands had later, I did this in 1969.

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  • Mridgway
    replied
    On the procedure to use,when installing the rear main seal-I have seen on this forum a suggestion to turn the seal from the level position.Any ideas on that?
    Marshall

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  • Frank DuVal
    replied
    Victor is still around as Victor-Reinz!


    Mahle makes lots of engine parts. Bought Dana engine parts.

    https://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/na...vices/gaskets/

    OK, further research shows Victor-Reinz became part of Dana, who then.....

    Mahle it is!
    Last edited by Frank DuVal; 02-05-2019, 09:05 PM.

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    Originally posted by Studebakercenteroforegon View Post
    Mahle is expanding their engine parts business - their gasket line is the former Victor brand.
    That's interesting, since Victor has been out of business for decades!

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  • 64LarkLover
    replied
    Back in the day I worked for Dana Corporation in parts distribution. In addition to Perfect Circle rings, we carried the Victor line of gaskets. After all these years I still remember the head gasket numbers-1060 for the flat head six, 1100 for the V8 and 1168 for the OHV six. I've got a small pile of parts in the basement I need to go through. I've dragged them everywhere I've lived for over thirty years.......

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  • Studebakercenteroforegon
    replied
    Mahle is expanding their engine parts business - their gasket line is the former Victor brand.

    Leave a comment:


  • bensherb
    replied
    Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
    Found them! The "Other Parts/Gaskets Mfg./Seller at Rock Auto": Mahle. Apparently, they are somewhat into Racing/NASCAR etc.

    I also NEVER heard of these people, wondering WHERE their stuff is Made?

    MAHLE Aftermarket Inc.
    23030 MAHLE Drive
    Farmington Hills, MI 48335

    Phone: 248-347-9700
    Mail: aftermarket@mahle.com

    For $4.20 More than FelPro, you can get their JV1747 Studebaker V8 Main Seal or their Full Engine Gasket Set for a mere $30.00 More!

    These COULD be, just repackaged FelPro and Price bumped!
    They make pistons, cylinders and other parts for air cooled VW. A very common name in the VW world.

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    Found them! The "Other Parts/Gaskets Mfg./Seller at Rock Auto": Mahle. Apparently, they are somewhat into Racing/NASCAR etc.

    I also NEVER heard of these people, wondering WHERE their stuff is Made?

    MAHLE Aftermarket Inc.
    23030 MAHLE Drive
    Farmington Hills, MI 48335

    Phone: 248-347-9700
    Mail: aftermarket@mahle.com

    For $4.20 More than FelPro, you can get their JV1747 Studebaker V8 Main Seal or their Full Engine Gasket Set for a mere $30.00 More!

    These COULD be, just repackaged FelPro and Price bumped!

    Leave a comment:


  • Mridgway
    replied
    The crank surface is in good shape.I was curious because Rock Auto lists two seals(one I haven't heard of) I guess I'll go with the Fel Pro and get a pan gasket from a STUDEBAKER vendor. Thanks for the feedback.I plan to go to the International meet in September.Hope to see ya'll there.
    Marshall

    Leave a comment:

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