Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Ignition Switch.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Xcalibur
    replied
    You, my man, are fortunate. I've had a number of ignition switches go bad, a couple fairly recently. Fortunately, an ease fix once correctly diagnosed.

    Leave a comment:


  • rkapteyn
    replied
    I used to sell some of the repop switches and had customers complain that their new switches soon failed.
    I replaced these with N.O.S. switches that I had set aside for my own cars and asked for the defective switches to be returned.
    I took these defective switches apart and found that the contacts were silver plated copper instead of solid silver as the N.O.S. switches were.
    The silver plating did not last very long and the points burned.
    I mentioned this to the supplier and I think think that that has been corrected.
    In the mean time , there are still bad ones floating around.
    The same happens to some of the repopped relays.

    https://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic...-switch%C2%A0/
    Last edited by rkapteyn; 05-07-2019, 07:53 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • t walgamuth
    replied
    Originally posted by doofus View Post
    Good Luck Kerry!! seems those repop switches aint to swell. My 53 cranks and cranks but wont fire till i release switch. more checking when rain slacks off. may wind up with seperate Ign and start switches! Luck Doofus
    My cobra was doing this too.

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    Well. that WAS how it was built.

    Leave a comment:


  • doofus
    replied
    Good Luck Kerry!! seems those repop switches aint to swell. My 53 cranks and cranks but wont fire till i release switch. more checking when rain slacks off. may wind up with seperate Ign and start switches! Luck Doofus

    Leave a comment:


  • Kdancy
    replied
    Well, keeping my fingers crossed. Started right up this morning and electrics work (except for the disconnected amp guage)
    Apparently the amp guage was the problem.
    Will be changing it out in the future with modern manufactured SW guages including a volt meter instead of amp guage.

    Leave a comment:


  • t walgamuth
    replied
    My indie says all these type of switches now are low quality. I had trouble with mine on my Cobra replica. It has a new one now. If it fails again I may replace it with one from my garage....from a 51 caddy.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kdancy
    replied
    Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
    This is Puzzeling.

    Did you try wiggling/rocking the Ign. Key just a hair before and after the Click/Lock in for "Run"?

    I think when mine failed "ACC" are hot just BEFORE Run and the engine (Ign. term.) still runs, but locked into "Run", no ACC. Power, Heater, Wipers, Turn Sig. all dead.

    And since the Horn and Lights do not go through the Ign. Sw. they were OK.
    Update,
    I pulled the switch back out. changed it again.
    no go
    I took a remote start switch and could crank and run the car with ignition on. No lights or horn
    Took the regulator off and sandpapered the points, saw nothing obviously wrong.
    Talked to George Klutkowski, he advised me to pull the wires off the amp meter and tie them together. bypassed the amp guage
    Car starts, runs and lights/horn. Lets see what happens in the morning!

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    This is Puzzeling.

    Did you try wiggling/rocking the Ign. Key just a hair before and after the Click/Lock in for "Run"?

    I think when mine failed "ACC" are hot just BEFORE Run and the engine (Ign. term.) still runs, but locked into "Run", no ACC. Power, Heater, Wipers, Turn Sig. all dead.

    And since the Horn and Lights do not go through the Ign. Sw. they were OK.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kdancy
    replied
    Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
    The New Reproduction Switches have been having issues with the ON or Run Position being sometimes open, and touchy as to the exact spot/position where there is Power, unfortunately.
    Yesterday after getting it running and lights and horn working properly, I cranked it up at least a dozen times and let run awhile. everything good

    Well this morning, I tried to start the Hawk and it turned over and hit a few times then shut off. No problem, thinking I just needed to tap the throttle, tried again and no electro juice. Test circut on the switch -- showed 13.7 volts going in, as soon as key is turned to start position, voltage drops to 7-8volts and nothing.
    No lights, horn back to "Buzz" not honk.
    Unhooked all leads off the ACC post just to make sure nothing going on there and tried it. Same nothing.
    as soon as key is turned to on, voltage drops.
    I noticed on the wiring diagram that the battery lead off the amp meter runs to the voltage regulator. This one has its top riveted on. Maybe the regulator is the culprit? Sticking?
    I'll unhook the amp meter out of the system and see what happens, can't imagine that meter making that kind of draw.
    ????

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    The New Reproduction Switches have been having issues with the ON or Run Position being sometimes open, and touchy as to the exact spot/position where there is Power, unfortunately.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kdancy
    replied
    Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
    Kerry (Kdancy), Just know that there is more than ONE issue going on with that '57 Hawk!

    The Horn is directly powered (or should be) from the Solenoid.
    The Power at the Ign. switch also is, but through the Ammeter along with the Lights, two separate circuits. You may have poor connections there.

    I suspect the connections at the Ammeter and Solenoid and or the Solenoid failed.
    Rich, after reading your response, I went back and started re-checking everything. The horn hooks up to the solenoid hot side, which just acts as a bus bar, it doesn't actually go thru the solenoid. Anyway, I double checked all the guage connections. Wound up installing a new switch I had in stock and everthing is seems good now.
    Strange thing is that the ignition switch I pulled out was not very old. When I put the test light on it while installed, I got a strong light on the bat terminal post, but when the key was turned, got a very dim to no light going out to acc or st.
    Testing the new new switch, strong light in and out.
    However, I rechecked the pulled switch on the bench and it checks ok. I wrote suspect on the side of it to alert me when I pull it back off the shelf.
    Maybe an issue internally?

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    Kerry (Kdancy), Just know that there is more than ONE issue going on with that '57 Hawk!

    The Horn is directly powered (or should be) from the Solenoid.
    The Power at the Ign. switch also is, but through the Ammeter along with the Lights, two separate circuits. You may have poor connections there.

    I suspect the connections at the Ammeter and Solenoid and or the Solenoid failed.
    Last edited by StudeRich; 04-30-2019, 08:29 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kdancy
    replied
    I'm having strange things happening with a friends 57 Hawk. New wiring harness. Drove several times and then went 50 miles and parked in shop overnight. Was going to double check the lights and horn before driving it over to his house and the horn "buzzed" and did not blow. No lights. Checked battery voltage and cables, good voltage at battery and all other places using the body as ground. Traced back all the way to a fairly new ignition switch and had good voltage in, and super low going out. Turned the key back and forth checking ACC/BATT/IGN points on the switch. No voltage out. So am in the process of putting a new switch in now.
    Strange---

    Leave a comment:


  • Jeffry Cassel
    replied
    Isn't it nice that they are so easily hot-wired!

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X