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C/K trunk weatherstrip problem

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  • #16
    Originally posted by altair View Post
    I may be wrong but I thought I heard somewhere that the trunk rubber is secured to the trunk itself and not to the body channel, that will leave the channel open to divert water. I am going through the same issue and I glued the rubber to the channel and it does not fit right, I have removed it and I will be trying on the lid itself.

    On the C-K's, the way the factory did it, the rubber goes in the channel on the body, NOT the trunk lid.

    But it's your car, you can do it any way you want.
    Jerry Forrester
    Forrester's Chrome
    Douglasville, Georgia

    See all of Buttercup's pictures at https://imgur.com/a/tBjGzTk

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    • #17
      Not to be a stickler, but I'm guessing that Garys climate controlled shop actually has the "climate" controlled by adding heat or cool air. A frame off restoration is when you take the frame off of the body, to clean and paint it. And the old Firestone widowmakers actually split in half, down the center of the rim, leaving two pieces, each with an outer bead.

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      • #18
        I have a 55 coupe and the weather strip has always been visible on the top edge of the trunk lid.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by tsenecal View Post
          Not to be a stickler, but I'm guessing that Garys climate controlled shop actually has the "climate" controlled by adding heat or cool air. A frame off restoration is when you take the frame off of the body, to clean and paint it. And the old Firestone widowmakers actually split in half, down the center of the rim, leaving two pieces, each with an outer bead.
          Yes, my climate controlled garages do have a variation, but not like a free standing garage sitting out by itself with no heat or A/C added. My garages stay between 55 degrees F and 75 degrees F, even when it is below zero F outside, like yesterday, or 100 above F.
          Gary L.
          Wappinger, NY

          SDC member since 1968
          Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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          • #20
            Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
            Just wait until SomeDay, when someone invents a Dry Car Wash!
            It exists, Armor-All makes it, Wal-Mart and etc sells it.

            The genuine Studebaker weatherstrip didn't fit worth a damn. I installed one I got from F&F on my 62V-K6 and it leaked worse than the original that was 10 years old.

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            • #21
              My panel beater wasn't happy with the gap between the boot and the body. It was like they were on a different curvature. He got around the issue by freeing the inner body brace (located in the body) and moving the body to a higher more appropriate spot before rewelding . The curves matched and the fit is excellent. It still leaks but at least it looks good . With all the new types of rubber profiles around I'm sure there would be one that does a better job than the stock rubber.
              pb

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              • #22
                As near as i can tell the reason for the water leak is the rubber fits in the channel on the body and come right out to the body side edge of the trunk opening. Then the trunk closes on that to make the seal. That is if it fits nice and tight all the way around. which most don't. Any water can still get between the trunk lid though the gap area but once there has no where to go as Studebaker didn't think that far ahead. All it can do is run around the rubber until it finds a place to go which most times is into the trunk.

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                • #23
                  Just did a trunk lid dance with a '59 Hawk.
                  Hinges were shot. Replaced them with NOS hinges.
                  Amazing difference.
                  Trunk lid still fit like crap with the thick foamy like weatherstrip pushing it up too high.
                  Took it out and spent quite a bit of time getting the trunk lid adjusted properly.
                  Took a disk sander and removed some of the base of the foam weatherstrip all the way around.
                  Put it all back in and everything fit like new.
                  Happy with the result. Took way too long to get happy with that project.
                  HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                  Jeff


                  Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                  Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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                  • #24
                    Not sure you can keep them from leaking. It is a poor design. That is why so many Hawks have rusty or absent trunk floors. All one can do is climb inside with a supply of shims and with the help of a trusty assistant keep adjusting 'til no light shines into the trunk. There is no other way and if you can avoid the use of too many explitives and buy him a beer , your assistant might let you out. Weather strip has to show; the hardest part is the top front. If you gap it too close, you will chip the paint. If it is too far it will leak. The center part often doesn't quite seal up and needs tweaking. And when you wash the car, the last step should be to open the trunk and dry it!

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                    • #25
                      There is another source for trunk weatherstrip - Believe it is "Soft Seal" (anyone know for sure??). It is much softer than the original and replacement Stude' seal but does NOT have the formed upper corners like the original. No idea as to if it is any better at sealing.

                      paultk

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                      • #26
                        Click image for larger version

Name:	Trunk #1.jpg
Views:	2
Size:	84.5 KB
ID:	1725300This will be hard to believe but the trunk floor and weather strip channel in my Sky Hawk were rust free...with the original weather strip...which is still soft and pliable...Scout's Honor.
                        Last edited by 345 DeSoto; 02-11-2019, 05:41 PM.

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                        • #27
                          DeSoto : I'm sure Ripley's museum has a spot reseved for you!

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