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C/K trunk weatherstrip problem

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  • Body / Glass: C/K trunk weatherstrip problem

    My painter/body shop is trying to install a new trunk weather strip from S.I. When the rubber weather strip is placed in the channel in the body, the "flap" portion is visible in the gap between the trunk lid and the body. The problem is the car is light yellow, and the black rubber really shows. The situation is the worst in the gap at the front of the trunk lid where it meets the body under the "backlight". The gaps were set with a paint stick, about 3/16ths of an inch. Is this a common problem, or are we doing something wrong?

  • #2
    Typical on many GT Hawk deck lids....
    Lou Van Anne
    62 Champ
    64 R2 GT Hawk
    79 Avanti II

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    • #3
      I agree with Lou. I had the same problem on a 60 Hawk, but my paint color didn't show it as bad as your light yellow. I discovered mine after it was too late to do anything very radical about the gaps.

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      • #4
        The trunk lid rubber available now is more "foam like" than the original more solid rubber and on some Studebakers it will not seal the trunk.

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        • #5
          I just moved the deck lid all the way forward, and it looks as good as stock, and my car is white.

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          • #6
            If your deck lid fits at the rear bumper and corners with only a 3/16" gap at the window you should be happy. It fits better than the deck of any I've had or seen.
            sigpic

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            • #7
              Welcome to the SDC and to the SDC Forum Don!

              If the Side Gaps are a problem, you could have poor Fender to Body Fit from a prior wreck, causing too wide a gap at the sides of the Decklid.
              StudeRich
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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              • #8
                StudeRich. On the hawks the trunk fits into the body shell and the rear fenders are bolted on where the upper mldg runs. Every one I've seen had bad gaps and the design of the area around the weatherstrip is a piss poor design. I can see why they all leak water. Once the water gets between the weatherstrip and the bodyshell there's not really anywhere for it to go with ease other than into the trunk if it can. Studebaker ran the rubber right out to the edge of the opening with no rail gutter of any kind for the water to collect and run back out.

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                • #9
                  Yes, I am aware of what you say, that explains why the Channel around the Opening is Rusted Out almost always.

                  They could have had a Sun Visor paper Cover that said: "Do NOT Wash this Car with Water ever!"
                  Just wait until SomeDay, when someone invents a Dry Car Wash!
                  StudeRich
                  Second Generation Stude Driver,
                  Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                    Yes, I am aware of what you say, that explains why the Channel around the Opening is Rusted Out almost always.

                    They could have had a Sun Visor paper Cover that said: "Do NOT Wash this Car with Water ever!"
                    Just wait until SomeDay, when someone invents a Dry Car Wash!
                    I wash my cars with water once or twice per year. Other than that I use waterless systems such as Kozak and DWG.

                    EDIT: Of course this does not prevent the water of rain and snow. My cars stay in a climate controlled garage, but they do go out as needed/desired.
                    Gary L.
                    Wappinger, NY

                    SDC member since 1968
                    Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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                    • #11
                      Knowing about this problem from listening to others, I stripped of all the paint and primer from mine. I had no holes or rust. I painted on a heavy coat of POR 15 then applies a good coat of 2 part epoxy primer over that. This week the paint went on. Ill fitting (poorly designed) trunk sealing gasket shouldn't be a problem...

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                      • #12
                        C/K trunk weatherstrip problem

                        I too have the same issue with a bad gap on the right side of the trunk on our 1964 GT. from the top passenger side of the trunk the gap is 1/8" at the bottom corner it is almost 3/8". And no the car was never in a rear collision. My body shop is going to correct the problem by splitting the rear inner quarter and correcting the gap, welding it back with some new metal. Pain in the butt but, at least the gaps will be uniform.
                        Last edited by jbwhttail; 01-23-2019, 08:44 AM. Reason: incorrect year
                        It is an addiction!

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                        • #13
                          Always got a kick out of "climate controlled garage." Mary's big shop building is climate controlled, where temperature and humidity are controlled by the climate. Luckily around here temp seldom gets below about 44 degrees inside. Not picking on Gary, as I've also used the term on occasion. It kind of goes along with the term "frame off" restoration. Also bad gaps, actually the gaps are good, they're just in the wrong places. How about split rims, or two tone paint jobs. Tone is not a color, nor are the rims split. Excuse the whimsy must have gotten up on the wrong side of the bed, the right side.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by studegary View Post
                            I wash my cars with water once or twice per year. Other than that I use waterless systems such as Kozak and DWG.

                            EDIT: Of course this does not prevent the water of rain and snow. My cars stay in a climate controlled garage, but they do go out as needed/desired.
                            I have washed my Hawk with water one time and that was when I bought it ten years ago. I clean it after use with liquid wax and try to never drive it in the rain. And no, its not a daily driver.

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                            • #15
                              I may be wrong but I thought I heard somewhere that the trunk rubber is secured to the trunk itself and not to the body channel, that will leave the channel open to divert water. I am going through the same issue and I glued the rubber to the channel and it does not fit right, I have removed it and I will be trying on the lid itself.

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