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Oil return holes and dowels

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  • Engine: Oil return holes and dowels

    I'm finally ready to get the heads back on RS1034, and in reviewing the shop manual realized there should be hollow dowels (probably pipes?) in the block going into the head. I know someone was inside this engine before and made a mess, and those dowels were not in there when I took it apart.
    since the head gasket seals the area, what is the function of them? Are they really needed? If I need them, to avoid another hurry up and wait by ordering a pair, anyone know offhand what is out in the hardware store that would work?
    I WILL finish this SOB, but it sure is putting up a fight!
    Ron Dame
    '63 Champ

  • #2
    The dowels (solid dowels) are there to properly align the head to the block, and head gaskets...

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    • #3
      Ron ,you can order the dowels from Studebaker International. They have to be tapped in carefully and centered straight. I use a special driver. Order some spares in case of oh s$$. Yes you need them to hold and align the gasket as well as the cylinder head. A setback for now but dowels are necessary.
      Start and Stage Your Studebakers

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      • #4
        I would like to have an engine builder like Jack Vines post his input here. Yes, I think the dowels help keep the heads aligned, but once the head bolts are in place, it looks like the dowels are not needed for just that function anymore. As long as the head gasket is properly sealing, I'm not so sure what other functions the dowels serve. It could have been for factory assembly purposes, where the dowels helped hold the heads in place as a time saving and process function. I would like to know.
        John Clary
        Greer, SC

        SDC member since 1975

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        • #5
          Again, they align the headgasket so that the fire ring does not overhang into the cylinder bore. Then the head drops down also in perfect alignment with the block and gasket.
          Start and Stage Your Studebakers

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          • #6
            The dowels are to allow the head to stay in pace and not slide off the block while you locate and insert the head bolts..... not rocket science...
            64 GT Hawk (K7)
            1970 Avanti (R3)

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            • #7
              Originally posted by 64V-K7 View Post
              The dowels are to allow the head to stay in pace and not slide off the block while you locate and insert the head bolts..... not rocket science...
              You are correct...it is not rocket science...and our toes are grateful
              John Clary
              Greer, SC

              SDC member since 1975

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              • #8
                1. As incorrectly mentioned above, these are "sleeves" NOT...solid dowels.

                2. Because the heads will be under pressure, that is, can be lifted OFF of the block by the combustion process, the sleeves NEED to be in place...for ever. No desire to remove them after the head placement, even if one could.

                3. They semi-precisely locate both the gasket and cylinder head onto the block. This IS a requirement for cylinder head location about the deck of the block. Otherwise, the port alignment of the intake manifold would be off. The intake manifold gaskets would NOT seal. The water passages (block to head) "may" leak.

                4. The rear sleeve location has a hole in the block for oil return from the cylinder head to the oil pan. No hole in the front. "DO NOT" install a solid dowel in this rear location.

                Mike

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                • #9
                  Yes, agree with all the above. They align the heads and gaskets during assembly.

                  No, they're not dowels, which are solid. They're hollow steel sleeves.

                  jack vines
                  PackardV8

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                  • #10
                    Yes, that is JUST what you need Ron. The Oil returning from the Rocker Arms pouring INTO the Head Gasket, on the Block and on the Head without the Sleeves or overflowing the heads and running out of Oil with a Solid Pin installed.
                    StudeRich
                    Second Generation Stude Driver,
                    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                    • #11
                      Gawd , someone fd this thing up.just another hurry up and wait.
                      Ron Dame
                      '63 Champ

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                      • #12
                        I decided to clean shop today and get parts organized again, my shop is a very small space and goes to crap quickly. I found the missing head bolts still in a can of Berryman's, but no dowels/sleeves. I am 90% sure they were not in the block or heads when I tore it down.

                        My newest headache is that I've lost some photos! This is an R2 Avanti, and that is important. The brackets that hold the ignition shielding: which head bolts do they go under?
                        On the right side only (I think) two of the head bolts are, for better words, double sided, with a 1"+/- fine thread "bolt" on top. Again, which holes do these go in?
                        Ron Dame
                        '63 Champ

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                        • #13
                          Ron, the head bolts with the top studs are fr the supercharger bracket, and go on the passenger side front on top of the exhaust port.
                          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20160129_163811930.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	79.5 KB
ID:	1724891Here is where the shielding brackets go. (R1) but the same location.
                          Bez Auto Alchemy
                          573-318-8948
                          http://bezautoalchemy.com


                          "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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                          • #14
                            Thanks Brad!
                            Ron Dame
                            '63 Champ

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                            • #15
                              I got both the sleeves and time and got the heads back on. Today was kind of cold, so it seemed an ideal time to try for the fourth time to get the danged harmonic balancer back on the crank (Avanti, with rubber). I've tried but the threads in the crank are compromised but cleaned up, and the old bolt was trashed, though I have a new bolt (for $30!) So I want to keep forces to a minimum, and I am sure not going to hammer the thing on!

                              I checked both the crank and the balancer for nicks and scores and such. I did need to clean up the keyway in the balancer where the key would not pass.
                              I've been heating the balancer to about 275F before trying, but still am not having much success. How hot can I heat it and not degrade the rubber? Any other advice?
                              Ron Dame
                              '63 Champ

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