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Control Valve

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  • Steering: Control Valve

    I recently finished a front end rebuild on a 63 Lark. Part of the process was putting seal kits in the ram, pump, and control valve. First test drive steering pulled hard to the left. Raised front, started engine and steering went immediately to the left. Thought maybe I'd reversed the left and right turn lines on the ram. Swapped them, fired it up steering rocked back and forth rapidly.
    So I need some ideas on what I did wrong in the control valve. In the disassembly laid everything out as it came apart. Then reassembled as in same order. Aren't that many parts to mess up, but somehow I sometimes find a way to mess up the uncomplicated project.

  • #2
    If you turned the Nut on the Spool Valve or not, either way it is OUT of adjustment.
    Follow the Shop Manual for reassembly of the Control Valve Assembly.
    Last edited by StudeRich; 12-21-2018, 09:53 AM.
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner


    • #3
      Did you reverse hoses? Very fussy to adjust;it needs to be perfect or you won't enjoy driving the car! Just got Mustang back---rebuilt control valve and then mechanic rebuilt it -twice. Then we bought a rebuilt unit and it finally works perfectly. Could have saved a lot of time, parts and labor by just getting the rebuilt valve to begin with.


      • #4
        Originally posted by Jeffry Cassel View Post
        Could have saved a lot of time, parts and labor by just getting the rebuilt valve to begin with.
        IF and it's a big if, the thing was rebuilt correctly by the "pros." It seems like there are a lot of rebuilders who call themselves professionals, who do substandard work. Of course, one definition of a professional is someone who is paid for their work. We tend to think that a professional will do good work, but there is nothing that requires them to do that - unless they want to stay in business, of course.
        RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

        17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
        10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
        10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
        4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
        5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
        56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
        60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible


        • #5
          control valve

          Thank you for the responses. I mentioned in my plea for that I'd put seal kits in the steering parts, don't know if that constitutes being rebuilt or not as there was no machine work done or intricate adjustments done. Did an extensive cleaning removing any signs of oil, grease n dirt that these components attract. especially on a car that was restored in early eighties and used regularly and nearly 100k miles put on it. With Studebaker's propensity for oil leaks they can get rather gummy and nasty. Steering system was leaky, engine was leaky and so was the trans. Then it set for nearly 10 years and that really helps them. Pulled cap/clip and everything came out and apart cleaned, resealed painted, powder coated and reinstalled. Along with that,all suspension components were removed, old bushings and rubber parts removed and new ones installed. With that found a crack in the upper shock tower and I straightened, reinforced and welded up. To say I'm a professional, no I'm not I'm just an old hack. This is the only control valve I've worked on and I installed power steering and A/C in the early eighties when I redid the car for my Dad. It was a plane Jane V8 automatic Regal. This is the third time I've resealed the control valve. Unfortunately I only used shop manual to verify reassembly and after all these years never knew about the nut on end of the valve being what equalizes the pressures. I'm planning a trip first week in January to it's current owner's place and fix it. 2011 I gave the Lark to my stepson as he helped me redo the car when he was a kid. I've begun to see the older I get more mistakes I make and everyday is a learning day.
          So thank you for the guidance and anything else you suggest would be appreciated,


          • #6
            I usually pull out the aluminum hose seats and reface them. Under the return seat is a check valve. The pitman arm ball seats have to be properly oriented so the heavy spring seats them properly. There is a stop insert inside that spring that has to be there. Also the nut has to be all they way tight, then just backed off enough to insert the lock pin. Both rubber cushions have to be in place along with the steel washers. The groove in the spool valve faces the rear of the car. Also there has to be the metal backer washers on the spool valve seals (on on each seal). Tighten the end nut under the cap ALL THE WAY TIGHT. then back it off LESS THAN 1/4 turn.
            Bez Auto Alchemy

            "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln


            • #7
              Thank you sir.