Announcement

Collapse

Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage: www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
See more
See less

Best synthetics for Stude engines, Trans, OD, and differentals??

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    I use redline MT90 in my T10. Works great here in FL. For colder weather, you may want to try MTL.
    78 Avanti RQB 2792
    64 Avanti R1 R5408
    63 Avanti R1 R4551
    63 Avanti R1 R2281
    62 GT Hawk V15949
    56 GH 6032504
    56 GH 6032588
    55 Speedster 7160047
    55 Speedster 7165279

    Comment


    • #17
      My Avanti has a T 86, I wonder if it had #30wt in it like studenorm mentioned in a previous post , Ed

      Comment


      • #18
        Are there any soft parts in the OD units ?? T86A ? Just like the Zinc dicsussions, if you only drive 1500 miles / year, and treat your old car like a friend.... is it possible to do any harm with today's lubes....., or better yet, after all these years are our drivetrain components ready to go bad despite lube choice...

        Comment


        • #19
          Put synthetic in 64 with a T-10. Syncos didn't work. had to change 90 wt 2x before it would shift nicely again. I would not use the stuff--there is really little point to it.

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by jts359 View Post
            My Avanti has a T 86, I wonder if it had #30wt in it like studenorm mentioned in a previous post , Ed
            According to the shop manual I have, probably the same one everybody else has, 30w engine oil went in all standard trannies, including Avantis.

            Comment


            • #21
              There sure isn’t any consensus on this topic! I was in hopes of getting a warm fuzzy feeling one way or the other but seem to be just as on the fence as I was before.

              Thanks to all who took the time and trouble to reply.
              Nick

              Comment


              • #22
                The other day I was looking at my 8E shop manual. They call for 40 wt. in that one for the 3pd trans , Ed

                Comment


                • #23
                  My opinion on lubes for Studebakers is to use what makes you feel good. At this point in time, I'm using SAE 50 synthetic truck transmission lube in the manual transmissions I service, because we used that in the Fuller Road Ranger 13 and 18 speed transmissions in our big trucks with great results and I've found that it works well in the smaller passenger car transmissions too. I've used both Redline and Amsoil manual transmission lubes in the past but to me, the truck transmission oil works as well as or better than the boutique oils and it is cheaper. I still use Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-110 lube in all of my differentials because those are units that don't get their lube changed often and the difference in price between a conventional gear lube and the Amsoil isn't enough to break the bank. Bud

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    I put synthetic for manual transmissions in the T10 in my '62 Gt Hawk about 10 years ago and can shift (even when cold!) with two fingers! I've owned the car for 50 years and it's never shifted better, especially when cold.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Aside from Studebaker, Willys Overland sold among the most R-10 overdrives as options at the time. With the ‘51 10G-W5 off to bed for the winter I’m now disassembling a ‘50 Jeepster for a complete color change and have extensively researched the B-W T-96 and R-10 units that both these cars happily share.

                      Nothing higher than API GL-1 whatsoever in the R-10, and since there are channels that balance the oil level, this means the transmission also needs the same oil (90W or 80W-90). The reason is apparently that the newer oil platforms have more aggressive film-lubricant ingredients that mess with the OD operations. You would have to strip out all the old oil and start again. No thanks. It’s rare and expensive, but NAPA and other sell GL-1 oils.

                      In my engine I’m running Pennzoil 15W-40 (typical for Mercedes diesels, so easy to find). Nice easy starts but a healthy viscosity range. Heck for the <1000 miles/yr I’ll put on it, I’m not sure it matters. Never was fitted with an oil filter 67 years ago either...

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X