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V8 Rear Oil Pan Seal

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  • Engine: V8 Rear Oil Pan Seal

    I’ve installed the rear oil pan seal a number of times and I just wanted to ask what method those of you out there do it. Does it work better to start it on one side of the bearing cap and work across or center it and then work one side in and then the other? Does either way work better than the other.
    Just curious.

  • #2
    Start figuring out which side is going into the groove. Put the seal into a soup can for a day or two the way you will place it into the groove. It will take an ark shape and be much easier to put in. I test fit them dry, do some trimming, then goop it up and go. Starting from one side and making sure it is in the groove and staying by itself, then move to the other side. Trim again if needed, goop and go. .

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    • #3
      Mr (S) I know you have been brought up Studebakers and have been trained by the best but I would not recommend cutting the ends off the cork gasket it is made to a length to compress in the space, they will go in without trimming, You may require longer bolts to start the compression and when it is sufficiently compressed the standard pan bolts can be reinstalled. I have installed several and have not trimmed the ends. Trimming the ends will only shorten the life of the seal.

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      • #4
        I did it with the engine out and upside down and it still took some doing. First, I too had to trim it a bit, there was no way it was going anywhere near the groove otherwise, it was 1/2" too long. That soup can idea is good, but it may take some time , I bent it into a ring and clamped it, but a day was not enough. Anyway, I fit one end into the "pocket" at the block on one side ,with "the right stuff" sealer in it and the groove, and fitted it over to the other side into the pocket and taped it into place for 2 days until the sealer dried enough to hold it. I then coated all three sides of the cork gasket with this sealer, and a heavy glop in the corners and installed the pan after straightening and reinforcing it's flanges. After torqing the pan bolts I smeared sealer all the way around the pan gasket filling the groove between the pan and block. This "The right stuff" sealer is intended to replace the gasket. I just didn't think it would be up to the task of filling the 3/8" gap that would be there if I left the cork out of the rear of the pan.

        No leaks yet.
        sigpic

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        • #5
          The Rear Oil Pan Cork "Arch Gasket" length will vary with the Different Mfg.'s and Age of the Gasket Set.

          I have seen some in different years of FelPro Sets that WERE outrageously TOO Long and did require slight trimming, but VERY little, as it will force into the Main Bearing Cap groove and fit tightly with "SOME" Compression, what has made the difference for me is doing a good good Sealing job.

          Do not trim it unless it MUST be, to pull up enough.
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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          • #6
            Good advise here --- I used a few small vice grips to Lightly hold and keep a U shaped gasket (glued) to the pan
            then when dry, glued the other side, then fit the pan up and in

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            • #7
              That would work on the Front Arch Gasket, but not the REAR, it must be forced into the Rear Main Brg. Cap First.
              StudeRich
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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              • #8
                Adding pan side reinforcements will go a long way to stopping rear seal leakage and make your Studebaker drip free.

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