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  • Engine: Freeze plug

    Anyone know off hand the freeze plug diameter for a 289?
    I lost one today on a drive,
    I hope the engine wasn't damaged

  • #2
    You didn’t tell us the year of the engine. The diameter is 1-1/2”. But...an earlier engine, up to mid-1962 would use 1-1/2” disc plugs. A mid-1962 and later engine would use 1-1/2” shallow cup plugs.

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    • #3
      It’s a 63 & has shallow brass cups
      just didn’t know the diameter
      thanks

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      • #4
        I just swapped out all the plugs in my 289 ('64). I used this kit, they fit great, had a bunch of stuff left over for future projects too. Not bad for 11 bucks. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pioneer-PE-...xj-W:rk:2:pf:0
        sigpic

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        • #5
          Yes, 1-1/2” cup soft plugs - maybe the only thing that fits both Studebaker 289” engines and Ford 289” engines.

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          • #6
            It is equally important that the block has the casting lip inside the expansion hole for the plug to stop against so it can be set. If not a different design plug may be required such as a Dorman style expansion plug. On my 259 block the casting lip was rotted away and would not accept the standard plug.

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            • #7
              Just a helpful Hint. Dave, the machinist that I use, said that he puts them in with red threadlocker. I've also found that Chinese freeze plugs do not fit snugly. This prompted me to adopt Dave's technique and abandon Permatex. I don't imagine those rubber expanding types would be good for much more than 10 yrs. but freeze plugs are super difficlt to install with the engine in the car

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              • #8
                Originally posted by altair View Post
                It is equally important that the block has the casting lip inside the expansion hole for the plug to stop against so it can be set. If not a different design plug may be required such as a Dorman style expansion plug. On my 259 block the casting lip was rotted away and would not accept the standard plug.
                This is not an issue with a Late '62 to '64 Block like the OP's '63 has, because the Core Plugs are not Disc Type, they are Standard CUP Type as noted in Posts 3, 4, and 5.

                Click image for larger version

Name:	289 Ford Core plug Kit.jpg
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ID:	1724246 This is the Ford 221, 260, 289, 302 and 351 Kit with parts that are not needed on a Stude. included, but ARE the somewhat Hard to find 1 1/2" VERY Shallow Cup Type.

                Being very shallow, they will not hit on the portions of the Old early Block Ledge that some Late Blocks still have, too early before being seated,.
                Last edited by StudeRich; 11-03-2018, 04:38 PM.
                StudeRich
                Second Generation Stude Driver,
                Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                • #9
                  Click image for larger version

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ID:	1724252Click image for larger version

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ID:	1724253I was suggesting the Dorman expansion style not the rubber type, I can see now how the cup type would work as it is about .009 over 1 1/2" for a tight fit. It would be imperative that it would have to go in square. The Dorman style would be a little bit easier to install with the engine in the car

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                  • #10
                    Well...............
                    I tried the easy way out and got bit
                    Couldn't swing a hammer to fit a metal plug so I went with the rubber expanding type.
                    It worked great,,,,,,,,,,for about 100 miles and fell out again
                    Guess I'll do it right the second time around

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                    • #11
                      Just go the the local auto parts store and tell them you want one for a late 70' early 80's Buick 3.8 v6.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Chartrain View Post
                        Well...............
                        I tried the easy way out and got bit
                        Couldn't swing a hammer to fit a metal plug so I went with the rubber expanding type.
                        It worked great,,,,,,,,,,for about 100 miles and fell out again
                        Guess I'll do it right the second time around
                        A compromise is the two part metal expanding ones. You tighten the center bolt rather than drive it in. I have had good experiences with these in hard to get to places.

                        EDIT: I see that it hasn't been noted, but these are core plugs. They are not designed to be freeze plugs even though they may come out with a freeze.
                        Gary L.
                        Wappinger, NY

                        SDC member since 1968
                        Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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                        • #13
                          FWIW; I lost a plug on a '52 Commander I had years ago, and when I rebuilt the engine a couple of years later my machinist found a crack in one of the heads (but had no overheating issues up til then). I'm sure the crack was related as I drove a few miles after the plug fell out (unknown to me until I stopped).
                          AND replacing the dish type plugs with the engine in the car was a pain!

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                          • #14
                            When using the 2 part metal plugs you will need a thinner than normal wrench to hold the plug body while you tighten the center nut. i found a tappet wrench handy! Luck Doofus

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                            • #15
                              just a FYI....when I blew out the rearmost expansion plug in my 53' flathead, the high temps ruined the Bourbon tube inner gas.... no more temp gage. I doubt the later screw-in type can get damaged, or at least never heard of one going bad...

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