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bearing retainer for t10

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  • #16
    If it is just the nose, can't you make it flat, and shim it out with the thicker gasket, or does it gouge the outside part too?
    Those 'extra' gaskets in the gasket kit are for 'shimming' it, in case someone reading along did not know. I would guess there are limits though.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by (S) View Post
      If it is just the nose, can't you make it flat, and shim it out with the thicker gasket, or does it gouge the outside part too?
      Those 'extra' gaskets in the gasket kit are for 'shimming' it, in case someone reading along did not know. I would guess there are limits though.
      Maybe, "sleeve" or "tube" the ID of the throwout bearing rides on would make it clearer. I've seen them so chewed up, the throwout bearing would catch until a really hard push forced it passed the worn spot.

      jack vines
      PackardV8

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      • #18
        Thanks Jack. I see.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by tomhoo View Post
          Is it a 61 Lark with floor pedals? They are the very best for precision clutch action - you can feel the throwout bearing tapping on the cover fingers./Cut/
          FYI: ALL Left H/D 1961 Larks have suspended Pedals (Better Brake, Poor Clutch).
          1960 was the last of the "Good ones", through the floor on Larks.
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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          • #20
            I have hanging pedals in my 61 and I don’t have a clutch pedal set up for the conversion. I will probably do all aftermarket. This is all research for when I’m done with my current project

            As far as hydraulic or mechanical, I feel that the pros and cons are equal. Comes down to what you prefer.

            I’ve had trouble finding a Studebaker (1.5”) bearing retainer. I can pick up a Chevy (1 3/8) for $20. Probably just go that route
            Charles

            1961 Lark Regal VIII 259/auto -- Lucy

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